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It's not exactly "revisit" in the UK. Most pubs already serve good local beer by cask and handpump. It's mostly just the big internationally owned lagers, Guinness that suffer from this, although there are many smaller US style craft beer breweries now as well.

Two key things have to be right: Firstly, the chiller has to be hooked up the right way round. Cold tap water goes into the end that you want cooled wort to come out of. Hot tap water comes out the end that hot wort goes into. Secondly, the chiller has to be full of water, with no air...

There is an article in one of last year's Zymurgys with calculations for doing this for beer. This does work, and I've checked it in a couple of beers, a 4.2% bitter and an 8.2% dubbel (really as a way of checking my wort correction factors for the refractometer). For wine, you need different...

You can't just solder thermocouple wires - they are made of different metals to each other, and require welding to join. Soldering them, even if it does stick, will prevent the thermocouple from giving accurate readings. Buy a PT100 sensor to replace it, and never deal with thermocouples again.

IMO, to get the best Kölsch, you'll have to go to Cologne and Brauerei Päffgen (not Brauerei Pfaffen) where it's served on gravity from the barrel. Not helpful, I know...

Except that's actually only true in the US. A pint of water at STP is 1lb, 4oz in the UK, and anywhere that the UK influenced. In Germany, ein Pfund (cognate with pound) is 500g.

Add 1.5 to 2lb of honey to a gallon of wort, ferment as a Bray's One Month Mead. That should just about get you past the 80% rule, and won't even be beer!

It's certainly not worth visiting. For anyone going to Portland: go to Foundation/Battery Steel/Austin Street - all in the same building, all with outdoor seating on the tap rooms. There's also a distillery in the same building. Allagash is across the street and Definitive Brewing will be...

Regardless of the explosion risk, you probably still want the valve directly on the outlet of the pump, so you can use it as a unit in other places in your system (for cleaning if not during actual brewing, or as a backup).

Cans of beer almost certainly can't follow the temperature of the air during a cooling cycle in the fridge very closely, because they have significant thermal mass. I find it typically takes tens of hours to cool a beer can to fridge temperature, so the thermal mass is probably high enough to...

Yes, but the freezing point of a 4.8% solution of alcohol in water is -2C, 28.5F, and 6.8% is -3C, 26.6F, which should be well below the temperatures in a fridge, unless you are storing the beer cans right under the air inlet in a fridge freezer that works by blowing cold air into the fridge...

That shouldn't affect the temperature at all, unless the beer is actually freezing.

One possibility: ICarbonation changes for quite a while after the beer is cooled, as dissolved CO2 gets into equilibrium with carbonic acid. This might be affected by storage temperatures and the amount of CO2 in solution in the can, and can take weeks to settle down. Another option: it may be...

Yes, and the weather changes atmospheric pressure within about a 3-5% or so wide band about the average for your elevation. That corresponds to about a 2-3F variation for the boiling point of water at one location/elevation due to weather, at sea level anyway. I haven't calculated for lower...

I started brewing when I was legal to do so at 18, and am now brewing at 39, so the average age of this homebrewer is around 29. I brew what I need to to keep the two kegs, one cask (winter only) and four cases of bottles full. And add some mead or cheese making if I need to fill in the gaps.

I used to get at least 5 5gal batches out of a propane tank. Going electric means I can brew in a >50F basement, rather than a <25F garage, just next to a utility sink. And also just next to the fermentation chamber, so I don't need to carry a full fermenter more than 5 feet. The grain...

Oops, and I guess the title should be "Cleaning glassware with egg shells and lemon juice"

My first guess is that there may be some relation to beerstone

This has been posted as a question at a science based forum I'm involved in, and I thought the water/chemistry people here might have some insight in to why this seems to work on cloudiness on glasses that limescale remover doesn't touch:

I put initial details here, where I was just using two standard Speidel spigots - one on the top and one as the tap. I've just started secondary on a newer version using Jaybird's stainless Speidel fittings, as discussed here, to put a ball-lock post and pressure relief valve on the top port...