Search results

Looks like after sticking at 1.016 for 3-4 days, i cold crashed, and now i'm at 1.014. Weird. Leaving it cold crashed for a little while longer to ensure its done, and it drops clear, then i'll keg it and call it a day. Still only got about 70% apparent attenuation

Well its been stable at 1.016. Turned the temp up to 74 to see if i can squeeze a couple extra points, burped co2 through the dump port to stir the yeast up, all to no avail. Guess this one is staying at 65% attenuation. I'll chalk it up to a packet of under viable yeast. Expiration date was...

Update here. Ran a water test with the new elements on the moved outlet, and it seems we're good to go. The heatsink on the controller was no warmer than it was when running the 1650watt elements, and the plug and 12/2 wire to the panel was barely warm. Going to run a full brew day either...

Normally mash temp would instantly be something to blame, but i'm PID temperature controlled, with a probe at the herms coil exit back into the MT, a probe at the MT exit, and an analog thermometer in the side of the mash tun. So i'm confident my mash temps were accurate

Never had this happen before in the barrels and barrels of beer i've brewed over the past 5 years, but my cream ale fermentation seems to have stuck. Its a base recipe i've brewed many times before and never had a problem reaching my final 1.008-1.010 final gravity. I'm currently around 60%...

Lol D'oh! haha all of this is coming as i'm beginning to rebuild my basement brewery too, moving from one side to the other, so i'll save the larger purchases/revisions for later on after all of that is done hah

Haha yeah the rabbit hole'ness of going to 240 keeps me from going to 240 until i'm ready to upgrade my brewing capacity. Once i wanna go bigger than 5 gallon, i'll likely retrofit my panel to 240, and wire in a 30amp 240 line. For now, sticking with 120v, i'm trying to avoid running all new...

After all of these replies, i think i'm gonna load up the HLT with 7 gallons of tap water tonight, and run it for a couple of hours to test heat up times, but also keep an eye on the wiring and temps. If everything is nothing more than lightly warm after a couple hours, then we should be good...

Yes it is the only outlet, on a dedicated 20amp circuit. Main Service Panel 20 amp breaker -->10ft of 12/2--->GFCI 20 amp outlet Thats it

I'm replacing it myself. It was an old outlet that i'm moving, and replacing with a 20amp GFCI receptacle wrapped around the screws. So i'm confident in the connections since i will have done them myself :)

Yeah the current setup is the 1650watt element on a 12awg extension cord into a 20amp outlet New would be 2200watt element, no extension cord, right into a 20amp outlet on 12/2 wiring about 10ft to the main service panel on a 20amp breaker. GFCI outlet of course

Yeah the NEC's definition of "Continuous Use" is 3+ Hours at 100% power. A typical 120v brew day is 2-2.5hours total heat up time at 100% output, mash for an hour, 30ish minutes for mashout, and then around 1.5hours between boil ramp up time, and 60 minute boil. So it never truly runs at 3+...

For you electric brewers out there with home electrical knowledge......... Most electrical brew systems running on 120v utilize 1650watt elements, such as the Clawhammer system, advertising them as being able to run on a single 15amp household circuit. Which on paper, works......1650watts =...

ahh I definitely misread. My bad! Correct as usual. I should have looked that it was Doug posting. He knows all!

Entirely true. But also not true. Yes the ssr bleeds voltage so the light is on when the element is off BUT that’s only when there’s no elements plugged in. Once you plug the element into the outlet, it acts as a path for that bleed energy and the light stays off. This is how my panel is wired...

Glad you found that its something much easier to replace! I brewed a beer yesterday and made it through the whole brew session, knocked out to the fermenter, and then went to turn on the HLT element to heat up water for cleaning, and the panel popped the GFCI breaker. I moved some plugs around...

My usual rule of thumb is the following Stout, or anything that needs a toasty bready character = Maris Otter Standard IPAs, American Ales, Lagers = 2 Row NEIPAs, Ultra Light lagers and ales = Pilsner/Pilsen Most of my recipes other than NEIPAs use 2 row. I'll use Maris Otter on some stout...

What concentrations are you guys using for the juice (ie: 8oz for 5 gallons, etc)

I use the Vittles Vaults as well for all my base grain and bulk grain storage. They stack, adn they're easy to open and access. As for the grains, i typically purchase when on sale, but shipping on bulk grain sacks is often a bit expensive. I've found it cheaper to buy the 10lb bags from...

Anyone have a go to extract or flavoring for adding cherry flavor? I've had excellent success with Brewers Best flavors in the past with the exception of Pineapple, but apparently the reviews of the cherry are awful and its very astringent. Looking for mild cherry flavor.