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For sure on the step mash capable units. You could set the first mash step at 40f or something below ambient, and the time for that step as 4 hours. The next step in could be your strike temperature (162 or whatever) and then set the timer to hold. It will stay at that temp as long as you want...

I used a 15g Bayou from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VXD94A/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 I managed to find an "open box / used" for $65, then I soldered my own fittings from BrewHardware.com

I have just recently switched and I am enjoying it so far. I'm using a floating cask pickup tube since my biab ends up leaving a bunch of trub that would be difficult to transfer. As a plus side, you can ferment under pressure and end up with a fully carbonated batch when you transfer to your...

In a competition you might get comments about color vs style if you declared it as a Mild, I'd imagine it will finish out looking like the light end of the porter spectrum. That said, I bet it tastes great.

Box and Backplate - $32 (Amazon) Heat Sink - $13.50 (Amazon) Terminal Blocks - $8 (Amazon) Lights and Switches - $7.50 (Amazon) Contactor - $8.50 (Amazon) RTD - $21 (Ebay) Auber DSPR - $40 (HBT Used) Power In Cable and Plug - $25 (Amazon) Power Out Cable and Plug - $25 (BrewHardware) SSR - $...

Ah, now I see what you're suggesting on the relay latch. In your diagram what keeps the main contactor energized when you switch the RIMS or Element on? The advantaged seemed to be in favor of the ice cube relay which could be configured to self-energize after the initial power on, and would...

Interesting idea, I'd love to see it drawn out, I'm not sure I can picture it.

Cornical might be an option https://www.blichmannengineering.com/cornical.html

Correct, pump is switched directly from the panel switch with the blue light in line after the switch. Element power switch drives the contactor and the red light is on the contactor output just in case it sticks. Auber controller is always on when the box is plugged in. The one change I still...

Pictures apparently broke, updating for posterity. https://photos.app.goo.gl/EBNoo2h5M1TrGxkL6

After delaying a bit to make sure I knew what I wanted medium-long term from my controller I have settled on a feature set pretty similar to the commercial units but opted for some budget components to reduce cost where appropriate while maintaining aesthetics and safety...

Here's a fun one, this thread got me curious enough to break apart the 40a Fotec I just took out of my control box. 12a rated triac. This SSR was functioning properly with 23a and 75% or lower duty cycle. When I ran it at 100% duty for 20-30 minutes it would get stuck on and required a...

Yes and no on the rating question, an ideal data sheet would reference heat dissipation vs current so you could properly size things. Once you get the lid off an SSR the TRIAC will be centered on the base plate and will have a part ID printed on the top. The lowest amperage TRIAC I've seen...

This post should be the real headline of this thread! Where are you finding a crydoms at that price? (bonus question, did you pop any open to inspect the triac?) Ooof. Pump the breaks bud... It's fair to say that under-rated components have been found in some of the <$10 SSRs commonly...

Isn't Auber shipping a re-branded ASH-xxDA for their SSRs? I've melted 1 and failed 2 white box SSRs (all Fotek stamped, but who knows). I'm getting tired of buying thermal paste, at this point I'm going to switch to an over-sized crydom and be done with it.

When you are holding (or changing) the temperature during the mash you have more control over the temperature if you pump faster. The limiting factor is how fast your false bottom can drain, you don't want to create suction and get everything compressed and stuck. If you're curious about how...

Very professional layout, quite compact considering the component selection inside! I like the use of illuminated switches to eliminate the extra indicator lights on the front (vs the standard Kal panel). My only observation would be on the single breaker for both 220 pumps, but I can't think...

Most likely is a faulty SSR, failing in the always-on position is common. Need a little more information to diagnose completely. Is the indicator light on the 120 flashing appropriately? The indicator on the SSR? Did you try disconnecting the Red line from point #1 in the diagram (safely) and...

The best advice is to go brew with someone that has the configuration you're considering. It will let you discuss the parts, get a feel for the process, and learn what they would tweak in the "Version 2". I understand that's not always the easiest thing to do. I've re-built and re-bought 3...

I ended up scrunching my 50' 1/2" copper immersion chiller down so that most of the coils were overlapped once or twice, that keeps most of it submerged, even when I only run 6g batches. If you were worried about the weight you could use stainless rods to make feet and attach them directly to...