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It's possible to build your own insulated chamber, but buying an upright fridge or freezer is dramatically simpler, faster, generally more efficient, and generally more reliable. I would go to CL or OfferUp and see what you can find. Lots of options for controllers, inkbird generally has the...

I'd find a local gas or welding supply shop and ask them if they'd do a tank swap for you. Seems safer and easier.

https://www.auberins.com/images/Manual/SWA-24x1%20v1.pdf See page 3 and section 4.4 Adjusting T will change the duration of on-off power cycling. A setting of 2 is recommended for SSR which would be 1.2 sec of full power and 0.8 seconds of no power when running at 60%

The programmable steps and relays would be the only reason.

If the still is an option then this seems like a bunch of work to turn bad beer into less bad beer. Bad beer into good gin seems like a more fun hobby to me [emoji1787]

The solder on might be a PITA in your element enclosure, but I wouldn't worry about using a fitting like that in my system. Just make sure you get the hot side from the controller hooked to the plug side that doesn't have the exposed pins. I quit boiling over when I went electric. As much as...

There's a thread out here somewhere that says 'if I die, please don't let my wife sell my brewery for what I told her I paid for it.'

You've got me there. It is 100% fun when your friends ask what it costs to make beer and you can answer 'well this IPA was $34 for 50 pints'

https://ballandkeg.com/

Something like this might be what you want: How to add permanent volume markings to a kettle (illustrated) https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/index.php?threads/How-to-add-permanent-volume-markings-to-a-kettle-%28illustrated%29.463099/

Hahahah ZOMBIE THREAD! The fastest way to ruin a perfectly good hobby is to try to figure out a way to get it to either make or save you money. I might have saved money in the first six months, who knows. I went into brewing as a hobby so I spent that part of my budget on gradual upgrades...

$100 on Amazon will get you a brand new stainless prep table (30x24") that has an adjustable lower shelf. No doors, but you could create a cloth or plastic dust funnel to match the size of your catch buckets. The top should be easy to cut/drill to match your Mill and Motor, you might want to...

I've actually had good luck just taking the charger off and keeping it in my pocket. Then I just give it a zap or two whenever I see the pours slowing down.

I use one of these. It works just fine but you need a sign that says don't touch me. People have a tendency to run the keg up to 60psi and then complain about foamy pours. https://www.homebrewing.org/Co2-Cornelius-Keg-Charger-Genuine-Innovations_p_5783.html

By default the controller will output 100% power in boil mode until the temperature is near your bAST temperature (200f). Page 5 in the manual https://www.auberins.com/images/Manual/DSPR120_manual.pdf

I heat up enough water to cover the element to 110f and mix in alkaline brewery wash. I usually let that sit for a while, not sure it needs to soak long but I've always got something else to put away. Everything comes clean with a light rub with a green scrub sponge thing.

That is fascinating, thanks so much for taking the time to explain the process and the planning and design considerations! Good luck on the build, hopefully the pump works out well.

I'd love to understand the application that requires on-demand cooling off 3-4 gallons per minute of milk. Seems too fast for a self serve in a glass, but I guess you could refill jugs. If power is an issue what's the plan for keeping the glycol at 0c? This project sounds so cool I just can't...

Not that you're worried, but I think some of the things you might have done differently will be forgotten in the fun of the first few batches. The U-support will probably sit better once there is weight on it, and the size probably won't be that critical. My advice for the first few batches is...

No doubt