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I used to do the mash and lauter thing. After doing BIAB and not noticing any difference in the end result I've stuck with BIAB. This saves an hour on brew day too.

I do three to three-and-a-half gallon batches only. Fills my needs. Get to brew more often. More variety on hand. BIAB is easier with smaller batches too.

I have an immersion chiller and a fountain pump. Ice and some water goes in a bucket with the pump, pump pushes water through the chiller. I recirculate this until wort is cool adding more ice if needed. I run just tap water down to about 120F before switching to ice.

This recipe gets me 3.75 gallons in the fermenter. My water is SOFT. It's municipal and pulled from a lake. I put about half a campden tablet in six gallons of water before starting.

Brewing since 1990.,This is the first beer I've ever made a second time to almost the exact same recipe. It gets a lot better with age. Finishing up a batch I bottled last March. Hops aren't British but they work. Made more today. If you question my process, I don't care, it works. Made my own...

I started homebrewing in 1990.The Edme dry yeast was pretty popular. I made some good beer with it. This thread reminded me, I've got a pack of S-33 in the fridge. Should have used it in my mild today. It got Munton's Gold instead.

I love bottling.....

I got called out to work on an air compressor one time. Middle of summer, hot, sticky. Companies used to like to keep their compressors outside enclosed in just enough plywood to keep most of the rain off. Anyway, I meet their maintenance guys. We walk around the building and they point me in...

Roll with it. An extra pound in five gallons sure won't hurt anything. Lightening up the adjuncts to make up the difference will probably change the overall character of the beer more.

Today I emptied a bottle to make a new home for homeless beer.

I'm drinking the last of a mild I made in January. Not that it was bad but it's gotten a lot better.

OneStep is great product. Been using it a few years as a cleaner and sanitizer. I have not had any infection issues.

Don't dump it until it's had at least three weeks in the bottle. Things change.

This thread got me thinking. I just did a wheat beer with Mangrove Jack's M21. Stuff started to work again after bottling and I've got gushers. Luckily everything is in PET bottles. There was a comparison made earlier in this thread of this yeast and WB-06. I made a stout a couple years ago and...

Company I used to work for got a chance to bid on a pretty good job to do for a company in California. Had a chance to make some pretty good money on it. That was until we discovered the amount of documentation that had to be provided regarding chemical contents, carcinogens, etc. Some...

I've made a lot of mead.. I find it a lot less troubesome than beer. I'll do three rackings to clarify it. When you rack just try to eliminate as much bubbling as possible. Something else it took me a while to learn, de-gassing is very important before bottling. Changes the flavor a lot...

I didn't say it would be a good one for me. It's his beer. He can make what he wants. I agree with others in that the specially grains need to be thinned out especially the melanoidin.

Just my two cents.... I think Pilsen type malt in general is less well converted than pale malt leaving more starch in the grain. As pilsner style beers are made with decoction mashing and protein rests which will break this down, I'm not surprised with the results you're getting. How much of...

I agree 100%. I know what I like. I'll just check my inventory and see what the universe tells me to put together. I do plug everything into BrewTarget just to check bitterness, gravity, etc. I don't brew to defined stores.

If you have the gear to do partial mash extract batches most likely you can use the same gear to do Brew-in-a-Bag. It's easy, fast, and takes less gear than a mash/lauter system. Less gear means less storage space. I gave up mash / lauter after a few BIAB experiments. I lost nothing flavor...