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I'd think any loss of hop aroma would be negligible as the major source of hop aroma loss in beer during fermentation is the binding of volatile compounds to yeast cell walls. Don't think you'd lose much since the hops don't touch the yeast, and the temperature in the hop chamber should be...

Hell, you could technically stack the setup you're talking about and put one dose in each level of the stack, open the bottom valve when you're ready for the first dose, open the second valve when you're ready for the second dose, and you don't need to blast or purge anything. I might work out...

Just a thought, you could start with the first charge already in that chamber and the butterfly valve just ever so slightly ajar. The oxygen in that butterfly valve should be replace with CO2 from fermentation by the time you're ready to do the first dry hopping, then you just open the valve...

If you aren't pouring often, turning off the CO2 is a good safeguard against any leaks in the system. Further, when you turn the CO2 on, listen for your keg filling with CO2. If you hear that, you have a leak in the system.

It is well documented, in multiple science journals, that the cell walls of yeast bind to volatile compounds, in this case, the molecules associated with the hop aroma (and other aromas in beer). If you're carbonating in the bottle, you won't have the opportunity to flocculate out the yeast and...

If you're using whole hops, I don't think this is going to work. I imagine you'll get whole hop cones touching each other as the 3" reduces down to 1 1/2", and further, the butterfly valve splits that in half, so you have 2x .75" crescent openings (actually, slightly less than .75), and even a...

All we know is the initial gravity you mentioned. If it ends at 1.01, you'll have ~11% ABV. That's about as much as anyone could tell you. People regularly drink beverages that strong, whether it be cocktails, wine, big beers. So that ABV in and of itself isn't an issue. What accompanies...

Jealous. Makes me want a pool, and I don't even like swimming.

Those "super extracts" are artificial flavoring, they are not derived from actual peanuts. That's not to say they aren't useful, and I've considered using it for peanut butter beer. However, in my experience, artificial flavorings don't match the originals. Vanilla beans, once fermented...

As others have said, use an immersion chiller and feed it with cold liquid. Rather than that cold liquid being water from your well/tap, you can use ice, which will have more chilling ability than the same amount of water. Further, compressors use electricity to cool, so you can get an...

I've been thinking about techniques for peanut flavored beers. Sharing some thoughts, welcome any feedback. Most peanut beers/talk of peanut beers involves peanut powder, which is the remaining peanut product after pressing roasted peanuts to extract the peanut oil. It seems to me that this...

Don't do what I did. I'm brewing a honey wheat ale for the first time. I've brewed plenty of wheat beers before, but not an american style wheat ale with honey malt and honey added. I'm about 60 hours into fermentation, it's very active, I just dumped 3lbs of honey mixed with 1lb of water...

When I said I "mash them up", I mean I physically break down the whole chiles into smaller pieces with a potato masher. As for the base beer that I brew before adding the chiles as a "dry-hop", it's generally a basic golden ale or lager with a lower hop bill than usual as I find too much bitter...

If you want chile flavor, without overwhelming heat, you can use a type of chiles that aren't as spicy as jalapenos or you can de-seed and de-vein the chiles before using them. I brew a hatch green chile beer every year come chile harvesting season. Hatch chiles are far less spicy than...

Seeing as it takes months to sour a beer, I don't think any small amount of yeast living in your beer line is going to have enough time working on your subsequent non-sour beer to make a noticeable difference. That being said... for beers that are going to leave behind remnants I don't want...

acidrain's approach is a good one (though you don't really need to "fill the keg" so much as just put in a little and shake it up). But dongavlar mentioned using fermonsters so I don't think it will work. Alternately (and not as elegant): CO2 is heavier than air. Sanitize your keg. Open the...

You could force carb in a keg and bottle from there.

Off topic, I use immersion chilling to get under 140F when doing 25 gallon batches, depending upon what I'm brewing. I use about 6x 1 gallon ice blocks (which take a couple days to freeze from tap) in a cooler with a couple more gallons water to top it off. I drop in 2x 50' immersion chilling...

I have the SSBrewTech glycol chiller, which works really well. However, it was expensive and I feel like the more mechanically inclined would be able to build something comparable for half the price (or less). It's a good turnkey solution.

Is the equipment stainless steel or aluminum?