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also there's The Complete Practical Brewer; or, Plain, Accurate and Thorough Instructions in the Art of Brewing Beer, Ale and Porter... circa 1852

If you can overcome the problems Evan! mentions the next step is making it CIP friendly (tolerant to caustic and acid, cleans well). It may have a market beyond the homebrewer.

I really like the fermenter as HLT idea. I'm not too stoked by the conical boil kettle idea. It would save a lot of sanitation worries, but I'm weirded out by boiling in the cone.

Avoid DE. It is an effective filter bed, but very impractical for homebrewing. Expensive and dangerous (skin and lung problems if you come in contact with it). Instead try a plate filter you will also need a pump.

Try a hop-stopper.

Also this requires a lot more welding. With the conical design you have the seem of the cone (if you are making it entirely from sheets) and the seem of the cylinder and the joint where they meet. The square design has ~4 times that. The welding on the cylindro-conical should be easier too...

This is the first I have read about the Arduino boards. A brief web search makes them sound perfect for automating a small brewery. Which board do you have? and how easy would it be to run it over the net? Any and all Arduino info is welcome!

1= :mad:exploding bottles. It's probably no fun to come home to bug and mold covered broken glass. 2= :(PITA and may get your yeast falling out earlier than you want (high final gravity). 3= :)3 and a half weeks can be a long time for yeast in beer, but in this case (gallons of beer, not...

If it does begin rusting or giving you problems you can always go back and grind out the affected areas later. good brewing!

I'm Catfish and I approve this message.

French kangaroos are awesome.

That was the best 9 seconds of my day.

Check out the Jamil Show on Double IPAS. Also there's the Sunday Session about brewing a DIPA.

Add the brett and the sugar at the same time (or even brett first). In my experience you get a nicer, fuller aroma and flavor if you feed the brett a bit.

fleas.............

Try to pick up a 2004, 5 and 7. You can have a vertical tasting with some friends.

Yep, that sounds right. I think you save your 16 bucks and buy one more extract kit with it. Don't worry about doing partial mashes yet. If you want to worry about something spend your time and money on sanitation, it is 100% more important than AG vs PM vs Extract. I would skip the...

Another solution: Ferment in your boil kettle. After primary fermentation is complete, transfer to a keg and carbonate. The break materials won't hurt your beer. The dimensions of the kettle are fine for fermentation. And if you have room to boil, you should have room for krausen.

Yes. Malting "wakes up" the grain, which is really just a seed, and makes it start growing. To grow the grain turns on its enzymes and starts making its starches into sugars. Then the maltster kills the grain and roasts it, toasts it into pilsner, pale, munich, black malts, whatever...

You do not want your fermentation too warm (especially in higher alcohol beers like a Double or Triple). Try to keep the fermentation temperature around 15-20˚C (60-68˚F) for at least the first few days. Try brewing saisons if you are looking for a good hot weather beer to brew...