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Yes, technically your beer is "done" when the gravity is stable. It is wise to let it condition for a bit longer though so the yeast can clean up fermentation by products such as acetaldehyde and make your beer taste better.

I can def share some knowledge with you, I have a few sours going right now. Do you happen to go to the HOTV homebrew club meetings?

Definitely dry hop aggressively, I second the wlp001.

You can remove it or leave it. Some people skim the hot break and others do not. It will mostly precipitate out over the fermentation and conditioning process.

+ on the mash low, 1.020 is too high a FG for a IIPA. Drop at least half of your crystal malt, it really just blinds the hop profile. Go for predominantly pale 2-row and maybe around 5-10% simple sugar to dry it out and boost the gravity. Also, you will definitely need a yeast starter and if you...

Ah I see, it all makes sense now. Thanks.

So the 150-200 ppm recommended above is because roasted malt beers will naturally drive the mash pH down, and thus the HCO down, so you can get away with high HCO levels with dark, roast malt beers but not paler beers?

What effect does bicarbonate have on the final product? I just realized I have been diluting down to soft water, thne building up my Ca and CL:SO4 ratio as needed, but have not really paid attention to HCO after dilution. All I could find was the recommended ranges: "Brewing Range = 0-50 ppm...

I highly doubt a pro brewery does no sparge. They would just be wasting gravity points which is a lot of money lost. I'll be brewing this up on Monday, will post results.

Mashing in on a saison with wlp568, just looking for any tips for this yeast. This will be my first time doing a step fermentation also. My plan is to hold at around 72-75 for the first day and gradually increase to 80 over the next week to finish out. Any thoughts are appreciated, I've read...

I'm in Corvallis as well, let me know if you are interested in some trades or anything if you can spare some slurry for me to build up.

or brett anything for that matter

brett saison

I miss read your OP and the fact that you dry hopped. You could possibly get some flavors from that, especially grassy/vegetal flavors you often get when you dry hop for too long.

The hops won't affect the beer but, you will be severely over pitching onto some stressed out yeast.

There actually isn't any lacto in the blend

Oxidation is more of a long term storage issue, opening your fermentor once or twice is not going to lead to oxidized beer.

If batch sparging it helps to make a dip stick for your boil kettle. Just get a yard stick and take the time to measure out quart increments up the stick. Then after you drain your first runnings, dip the stick in and it will tell you exactly how much sparge water you need to hit preboil volume...

RDWHAHB. If you are really worried about it you could purge your secondary with CO2 before racking.

i wouldn't bother for 6 months, put it in a closet and forget about it