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Just saw this active thread that will probably help you out: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f127/bottle-417754/

It's dependent on the strength of your bottles and the SG at bottling. Some people won't bottle a sour or brett beer until it is below, say, 1.006. Others wait for a consistent SG reading a few months apart. It really depends on what your plan is. What kind of bottles are you using, etc. Even if...

Water activity is the amount of water present that is available to microorganisms. So I guess what you said is correct, if the ion concentration of anything is high enough, the water activity is going to be very low and the bacteria will not survive. I'm really curious what the threshold would...

I wonder how the lacto handled that. I'm wondering what the OG ceiling is for some of the bacteria. Even a high enough sugar concentration can make a product shelf stable, similar to alcohol.

Are you at the Shelton Brothers dinner in Portland?

Thanks for the post. On a side note, what kind of sources exists for the taxonomy of brewer's strains of sacch, brett, and bacteria?

I had thought of pitching the pedio solo before everything else, but was worried about inviting other infections into such a high gravity, low IBU environment.

This beer's original plan was to be a big brett strong ale with fruit, but I called an audible a few weeks before and decided to attempt a strong sour. I threw everything I had at it, a few different strains of sacch, all the brett strains, 20+ commercial dregs starter, a fresh pack of pedio...

I don't know, but it doesn't resemble any friendly yeast or bacteria that I've seen.

The hops won't inhibit the lacto if you use a sour mash. If you utilize lacto with a sacch strain in primary, you need to keep the IBUs low since the L. debrueckii is inhibited over about 10 IBUs (assuming you are using the wyeast strain, i assume the WL strain is the same). There are other...

how many IBUs are you getting from that 90 min fuggle addition?

It sounds like you have done a sour mash before and therefore should know what to expect; a sweet/malty red profile with a lot of lacto up front. I understand you are trying to make a quick sour beer here, but I don't think the Flanders red style is conducive to this.

That's probably it. Right now I have it connected with some silicon tube inside of a SS braid. I will go get something more rigid to attach it with.

I am definitely vorlaufing enough (well I guess not enough because I never seem to get completely clear wort anymore) but I shouldn't have to vorlauf 2 gallons to get clear wort. I'll try the SS scrub pad.

I agree with the pitching rate being to high, a 2L starter is grossly over pitching for a hef. I usually make a PINT starter (~1/2 L) when making this style.

Do a search for aquarium heater fermentation temp control, there is a load of threads about this, tons of people do it.

I recently upgraded from a SS braid to a false bottom for my 10 gallon MLT (standard domed stainless steel FB). I used to have awesome, clear wort before my boil from the great filtering of the SS braid, but would occasionally get stuck/slow runnings. So I upgraded; no more stuck mashes or...

You want to minimize air exposure. Not only to avoid oxidation, but to avoid contamination. I suppose you could get away with it if you purged your secondary bucket with CO2, but its more work than its worth. Plenty of people primary in 6.5 gal carboys and secondary in 5 gallon carboys, that is...

A watched pot always boils, it happens once a week at my house.

48 hours at 30 psi works for me at ~39F. Although if you are patient and just set it and forget it for 2 weeks it almost always pays off.