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Sometimes you can get lucky on craigslist and find old stainless steel sinks

Mash at 158-160F for 60 minutes

Looks fine. Wlp002 is a PITA for accurate cell counts.

If you are brewing on a professional level you should definitely be using a pure oxygen system.

Its better to use a 5 gallon carboy for the secondary for a 5 gallon batch, it will minimize the head space and exposure to oxygen. A lot of the pellicle photos are in buckets or 6 gallon carboys because they have more head space, or in the case of plastic, a higher rate of oxygen transfer, so...

+1 on trying out RO water, definitely sounds like a water chemistry issue.

Chinook has a pretty high cohumulone level, which will contribute astringency in the bitterness. Try something cleaner for bittering, like warrior.

I think what the OP is looking for is basically a water chemistry primer such as: https://sites.google.com/site/brunwater/water-knowledge After reading that he should have basic understanding of mash pH, brewing ions, general brewing water chemistry and what they all contribute to the final...

this might help (should probably be stickied): https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f127/understanding-brett-flavors-298943/

Don't forget Oregon State University Fermentation Science degree. An equivalent education to UC Davis at more than half the price.

I have various growlers of brett/bacteria lying around, as well as sour cultures that I just feed every few months, similar to a sour dough starter, works well.

Sorry for the late reply, hopefully your beer has attenuated by now. You don;t necessarily need the high temps but it would help. Given enough time with your house at 70F, it should finish, just swirl your fermentor ever once in a while to rouse the yeast.

+1

From wyeast: "This strain is notorious for a rapid and vigorous start to fermentation, only to stick around 1.035 S.G. Fermentation will finish, given time and warm temperatures. Warm fermentation temperatures, at least 90°F (32°C), or the use of a secondary strain can accelerate attenuation."

Brew a fresh beer and blend old with new. Some acetic acid is welcome in sour beers, especially if blended correctly. Play around with other younger beers you have to blend in. The art of blending definitely includes having barrels that taste like crap on their own, but blended with others taste...

Have a berliner on right now dry hopped with citra (no hops otherwise). Turned out really nice, though I think some sorachi ace would have worked better.

What JP beer dregs did you use?

I think most flander's reds are pasteurized (at least the mass produced ones we get here in the states) so they can maintain the residual sugar for sweetness to balance the sour. Pasteurizing also locks in the blend they were shooting for.

Similar to this, yeah? I would go look through the pellicle photo thread.

Picture isn't the best, but it certainly looks like a pellicle to me.