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I use a SXS to ferment and store beer in. My suggestion is to keep it simple and not over think the situation. Basically you will use a temperature controller to control the freezer site do what ever your desired temp will be, I keep mine around 40*F. You will use another temperature controller...

I didn't have any real issues wiring up the panel but I am familiar with wiring and electrical. That also is a great reason to follow kals design it is all laid out in perfect order. If you source the parts yourself and take your time you can come in around 1000 bucks to build the panel. Hunt...

I run Auberins for my PIDs and timer and they work great, I dont have any experience with the other PIDs so cant speak for them. If you are on a budget you could always grab an Auber EZ Boil its a two in one style PID that you could use to control your mash and boil with some creativity...

I built a Kal Clone panel using the instructions on theelectricbrewery.com and I am very pleased with it. The directions on how to install, use and troubleshoot on his site are second to none. You can save some money by eliminating certain things in his panel like the amp and volt meters as well...

If I had to do it over again I would have spent the extra 10 bucks and mounted the breaker in my main panel. Connecting #6 wire inside a spa panel and then to the receptical was a PITA.

I use an STC1000 with a thermowell and Fermwrap in my fridge. I have the compressor delay set to 5 min but there is so much thermal mass in the carboy the fridge may cut on a couple times every 30 minutes or so. I also have my differential set to 1*F and with this setup I can keep fermentation...

Here is my setup, I dont have any up close shots of the panel on here right now but it's basically a Kal clone setup with keggles. It took about three brews to get the hang of losses and efficiencies but I will never go back to using gas. The fermentation fridge has the capability of...

You can short out the temp probe sensor and set the input to thermocouple I believe. I emailed Auber about the exact same question. This way the PID is reading basically ambient temp and you just adjust the power output depending on the boil. You can email Auber they will get right back with...

On my system I use keggles for all three vessels. At first in the HLT my temperature would always overshoot by 2 degrees and would drive me crazy. I filled the HLT with 15 gallons of water covered it and started my pump to recirculate as I would on a normal brew day. I then set the temp to 155*F...

Im guessing it went a minute or two then tripped the gfci due to heat Im guessing since nothing is grounded out. It was at 500+ degrees when I checked it on my fluke IR meter. I just let it cool down to 90 degrees or so and transferred 150* water that I had going in my boil kettle to test it out...

OK looks like I lucked out. Nothing is shorted out and what was causing the boiling popping noise was when the element dry fired the outer conductor has no gap between the folded over part of the element. This was causing the water in between the element to boil. I spread everything apart and...

I can't get a good look all around the element due to the terms coil I will check the resistance. The only thing I checked was across the two hot leads which were 10.2 ohms and hots to ground which were open.

Yesterday I accidentally dry fired my element. My resistance measures 10.2 ohms the same as my other element. My element seems to be making a noise similar to bubbling or popping when at full power. I don't remember it doing this in the past but I could have missed it the system is brand new and...

Good info :mug:

Electrically speaking do you benefit having the GFCI breaker closer to the load source vs at the main panel? I'm looking to get a 50amp setup and found the cost of a 50amp GFCI breaker to be 90 dollars where the spa panel is 65 dollars. So after doing the math they are not that far off in price...

Yes I can solder, just curious if anyone has hooked RTD sensors to switch. How does it effect the sensor and will it the unit need to be calibrated everytime you flip the switch since you are using two different sensors.

I'm considering just using one ezboil and a dual pole switch for the elements. I haven't quite figured out the best way to set up the rtd sensors in the hlt and boil kettle yet. I was thinking to just use xlr connections and swap them at the control panel when switching elements. Or find a way...

Is there any advantage of the EZBoil compared to the 2362 PID Controller for a three vessel electric HERMS setup? They are basically the same cost and although I am not very familiar with PIDs it seems like you get more for your money with the EZBoil. Any suggestions?

Might be a stupid question but I am assuming this is a 90min boil?

what was your addition size and hop schedule? Same as stated above with the nugget at 30min?