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Welcome! You'll need some way to relieve the pressure. You could just set the lid on loosely on top of the fermenter or you could drill a hole in the lid for a grommet and airlock. You need space for the krausen, but the CO2 produced requires some way to relieve pressure.

Holy $h*t! That thing must be what 6 ft tall - It almost comes up to the roof of your garage. And that drill, why that must be a man's drill :rockin:

You could easily start following "extract with steeping grains" recipes - they really aren't that different from kits. Do you have a LHBS you could go to? I always enjoy getting the ingredients myself (e.g. crushing the grain). Before you begin completely "improvising" I would recommend getting...

Vine St. Pub is also associated with Mountain Sun and does Stout Month all through February. Definitely worth checking out, they usually have 10+ stouts on tap, most of them their own but some guest stouts as well.

1. I brew for myself, being the only beer drinker in the house I sometimes brew 3gal batches instead of full 5.5gal batches. 2. The difference with partial mash is that your "steep" contains some base malt capable of converting starches to sugars AND you need to pay more attention to water...

Yep. No problem at all. Almost all my beers are partial mash partial boil. As Unionrdr said - mash with 1-1.5qts/lb of grain. Then you can sparge with whatever amount of water will bring you to your max boil capacity. For instance, if you have 4 lbs of grain, you could mash in 5 qts of water...

OK, who else has noticed that your capper looks a little like a crab. Two beedy little eyes on top and a mouth that is strangely magnetic. Anyone else talk to their bottling crab? Just me? OK! :drunk:

The wedding favors (Amber and Hefeweizen) labels are almost ready. I'll throw em up here when they're finished.

Zombie thread awakens!

For me the biggest reason to go from extract to PM was being able to use grains that must be mashed to convert (e.g. wheats, rye, victory, munich)

Working on designing labels for two wedding brews SWMBO and I are making as favors for our guests, but wanted to get your thoughts on labels we have already made. Thoughts? Suggestions? First label ever made [/URL][/IMG] Beer is named after our friend Josh-O (he loves all things...

+1 if you're using a no-rinse sanitizer. Make sure to collect the initial siphon flow in a separate container until the beer starts running through. Then transfer your hose to your receiving vessel.

Check your math. 48 bottles x 12oz/bottle = 576oz 576oz / 128oz/gal = 4.5 gallons

I have my buckets marked with quart increments. I then estimate my trub loss to come up with the volume of beer going into my bottling bucket. For instance if my beer level is at the 5.25 gal marking and I think I'll lose between a quarter to half gallon due to the trub I might enter 4.9 in...

I carb to style and use priming calculators, I like the TastyBrew.com one. I do tend to shoot for the high end of the style. One note of caution: make sure you have a accurate way of measuring your beer volume. There is a difference between priming 4.75gal vs 5.25 gal. And use the highest...

um...it won an award!

At 6.5% ABV and 65 IBUs, Dale's is an IPA (per style guidelines), regardless of what OB calls it. To the OP: It's your beer, call it what you want. Hell you could call it an extra-pale, lite, session, hoppy American Barleywine. But based on style guidelines what you're describing would fall...

I've been saving bottles for a big brew project I have going on (homebrew as wedding favors) and as such haven't bought canned craft beer in almost a year. Everytime I go to the beer store I look longily at Dale's, Old Chub, G'Knight, Modus Hoperandi, Upslope's Pale Ale and IPA. Some of my...

Not just a money maker - sound advice. http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html is a widely accepted tool for proper pitch rate. For a 1090 beer MrMalty says 3.5 Wyeast packs or WhiteLabs vials (depending on how fresh your yeast is) or an appropriate starter. Really for a beer over 1040 you...