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For transferring carbonated beer you just need to keep everything pressurized. I hold the pressure in the keg with a blowtie type spunding valve during filling. If beer for example in the fermentor is at 10 PSI I might have the keg set to 12 PSI while pushing the beer out of the fermentor with...

how tall is this item? I've got the old lid and am wondering if maybe I could put a tee on the single port in the sideways orientation so this spunding/prv would be at very top. On the center port on the tee I would put a valve and blow off tube. Need to understand if the tee and this PRV...

Thanks for sharing. I'm not that surprised, I think this is what brulosophy frequently runs up against. Blinded tasters are not super sensitive laboratory instruments. Any visual differences between the three batches now that they are done? Also how did you avoid oxygenation when you added...

the gasket is pretty reliable. there is a learning curve to getting it right every time, I found this diagram helpful when I was learning to do it right https://f.hubspotusercontent20.net/hubfs/7288227/Conical_Lid_Install_Instructions.pdf

Hmm we got 74 pages of discussion of that unit right over here: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/spike-conical-observations-and-best-practices.645440/ short answers to these questions - when do you take the trub out, before of after the fermentation starts? if after what would be the rule...

I had a lot of condensation issues with my first keezer. This lead to early failure of the freezer I think, developed some rust and the sides swelled reducing my original capacity from just barley 4 kegs to really only fitting 3. On my second keezer I made a few changes: went a little...

When fermentation slows down I swap the blow off tube for the gas manifold with a blowtie spunding valve on it's gas post. I maintain some pressure over the beer from that point on.

not good - this fermentation could easily heat itself up to 10F above ambient temperature and that could be a real problem get a stick on thermometer or an IR thermometer or perhaps you have a nice meat thermometer you could tape to the side of the fermentor with insulation over it. be prepared...

this sounds like it could be a super tasty beer. biggest challenge isn't going to be making the wort exactly right but getting a clean and complete fermentation on this monster. I'd add another pack of dry yeast. It is cheap insurance given cost of the rest of the ingredients. Make sure your...

If you can get an oxygen free dry hopper I think you will find good results letting fermentation finish and then dumping yeast more or less completely before dry hopping. When I started with the Spike I found an awful lot of hop pellets getting lodged in the piping. Dumping the yeast may...

welcome to the hobby and to HBT. Sorry your initial batches were not great but you are on a very steep part of the learning/experience curve and I'd expect your beer will improve quickly. Yeast is a good place to be focusing your attention. Yeast meaning using enough viable yeast for your...

sounds like recipe author is describing a batch sparge. The first runnings will be about 16 quarts...the sparge runnings will be another 24 quarts. So you are going to start your boil with 40 quarts in your kettle. This will likely boil over in a 10.5 gallon kettle. You may want to start...

Looks good! I actually removed the entire plastic door liner to get all those shelves out of the way on my freezer but looks like you didn't have to go that far. For the Auber there are 4 settings I adjust regularly. I believe rest of the settings are on factory. typical during...

It should work just fine but just to be contrary, from a dietary/health point of view, I think refined table sugar vs wort/dme the refined table sugar might win out. Here is my thinking...wort whether made at home from grain or made by dissolving and boiling DME/LME will only partially ferment...

The first thread under "Similar threads" below seems to answer your question comprehensivly. But for a short answer if you are doing an acid rest I think you want to measure pH after the acid rest. I'd actually measure immediately at dough in and again after the acid rest to see if the acid...

I bought a bucket blaster but was not happy with trying to balance kegs on the stand. I did like very much the included pump and EVA line/post cleaning system so I just moved all that to my Mark II which uses even less cleaning solution than the BB needed.

I run solution from my Mark II through the posts. Same way the bucket blaster is set up. Actually my Mark II pump died and I replaced it with the bucket blaster pump and it's EVA duotight parts.

I've integrated my keg and fermenter cleaning process into my brew day. My typical brew day includes brewing an 18 gallon batch and packaging previous batch (usually 15 gallons into three kegs). I ferment in a unitank so I can dump yeast and dry hops and the beer is fully or mostly carbonated...

wow I was expecting this to be a thread about a fun new way to brew with kveik yeast :bigmug:

hmmm I never get more than about 41 lbs into a corny keg. That is about the level that some beer and foam might start making it's way through the spunding valve. I fill my kegs on a scale and aim for 41 lbs. If I get 3 full to that level I call it a win. Didn't realize I might not actually...