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Yeah, it's only an initial observation based on one brew so something else might be going on. I do get it ground at the shop so that's another possibility, but my numbers have been consistent for years and its only changing to this brand that that there's been a noticeable jump in sugar.

That looks like a very weird place, all the people have their hats and coats on inside the bar. Dead animals on the walls and lots of guns. Looks great, I'd love to go there.

My worry would be introducing oxygen with the second dry hop. I'ts happened to me once when I opened the lid to DH after fermentation had completely finished. Never again, I always dry hop when there is enough action going on to purge the head space.

The problem I've been having since I started brewing 5 years ago is that I'm consistently low on my mash numbers. Given a 77.4% mash efficiency, Beersmith estimates an SG for my grain typical bill of 1.045. Every time I brew I'm hitting around 1.035, even when I do an overnight mash and it sits...

I do no chill when I make a raw, or no boil beer. I'm not going to put my immersion chiller in the beer without it sitting in the boiling wort for a few minutes. This weekend I made an overnight mash, no boil, no chill APA. Very little work and time to do.

Thanks for the info mate. I did mean to say 'I'd worry, maybe unnecessarily, about colour changes'.

They weren't cooled, they shattered while boiling. I really can't remember, but they could have been coloured. That might be it.

Possibly an alternative, though I'd worry, maybe necessarily, about colour changes. Bleach would have me worried about taste issues too. 70% alcohol is easy to obtain anywhere, cheap and works perfectly.

Hello mate and welcome. Regarding sanitizing, I can't get starsan where I live either, Brazil. I use a spray filled with 70% alcohol and cover everything in that prior to use. Seems to do the job.

I doubt boil times have anything to do with killing bugs as it's not even necessary to boil the wort to sanitize it. I regularly do no boil brews, where I give it half an hour over 72ºC. Louis Pasteur seemed to have quite a bit of success playing about with this.

It may have been due to a combination of them being boiling hot and bounced around in a metal pan by the boiling water.

I heated them with the water as it is rather obviously not a good idea to drop cold glass into boiling water. I did contact the brewer in question, who admitted that he'd never actually done it himself as he uses a metal dry hop tube.

Don't open it to look either.

Yes mate, its pretty phenolic, very similar to T58. It does dry with no problems and I saved the sludge. I can't remember if I managed to top crop it as well.

I boiled some large glass marbles to sanitize them for weighing down my dry hop bag. They shattered into a million tiny razor sharp slithers. There was no harm done, but a couple of months later I did see a highly respected brewer advising people to do this on his site. Another case of giving...

Imagine the fun times you'd have if the plane had to make an emergency landing in the UAE. You'd probably get the death penalty.

No matter what style, I always dry hop while there is still some active fermentation going on, aiming for the CO2 produced to push out the air that's introduced when the lid is opened. I've experienced oxygenation issues from opening the lid to dry hop after fermentation has finished.

Could be that your lid isn't sealing properly so the pressure isn't bubbling the airlock. As RM-NM said above, the refractometer will read the FG higher due to the presence of alcohol. You can use this program to correct that for a pretty accurate estimate - Refractometer Calculator - Brewer's...

Just did it a few weekends ago and I'm drinking it now. I brewed a hazey APA and a cream ale. After dumping the cream ale out of the mash tun and into the boil kettle I tossed the APA grains in with the cream ale grains and filled the mash tun to the top, letting it sit while the cream ale...

What temperature are the bottles being stored at?