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I've brewed a lot of good beer using my cooling only model. My pro upgrade kit and second unit from the kickstarter campaign just showed up recently and the heating upgrade is a nice additional feature to keep temps stable. That being said, a pending move to a place with a double garage means...

Scratched my shiny gear acquisition syndrome by purchasing the FTSS kit for my Chronical (en route from Cali) and an Infussion mash tun. Necessary? Hell no. Shiny? Hell yes!

Up for sale is a faucet tower, faucet, drip tray and sanke D coupler. Complete setup to turn a fridge into a kegerator. Just add a fridge, CO2 tank and regulator and a keg and you're in business. I've installed some nice replacement beer line, about fourteen feet of 3/16 line. Buy the whole...

Where are your conical housed? Mine will be in an unconditioned garage in North Carolina where we regularly hit 100+ during summertimes. Are you running glycol in your system? Any modifications to the chiller to get it to go below 40f?

Does it have a sanke coupler? probably out of that if so

Long time no post it seems. I've been doing a lot of research to improve my cold side processes and yesterday finally pulled the trigger on a 7 gal Brewmaster Chronical and am now trying to figure out my cooling situation. Living in North Carolina and brewing in the garage means that my...

Thanks. Go ahead and order and the magic of computers will figure it out?

Ditto that. Looking to go to electric for boiling and the hot rod is just what the doctor ordered

For folks that want to dry hop in kegs but don't want to drop the money on the Bear Flavoured double screen setup and dedicate a keg, pick yourself up some dry hopping bags from wilserbrewer

You can use a sponge but never the scrubby side on plastic

I didn't have any issues with mine via AliExpress. Can't say that they we're excessively greasy, and they certainly don't appear to be plated steel, they look and feel like polished stainless. And the one I've installed so far has no issues with leaking

Flip the breaker off in the main panel before you pull the outlet. The cable should be plenty thick to hold it still whilst you measure, so get it positioned with the power off then turn the power back on to measure

I have a panel with two PIDs, one for the RIMS tube and the other for an eHLT I've ditched the eHLT due to leaks and moved to just brewing no sparge batches, so I've repurposed the eHLT PID to measure the chiller outlet temperature. I previously used a CDN thermometer mounted in a tee fitting...

Whole hops will be a total PITA if you're trying to whirlpool with them added loose If you want to keep using leaf hops, bag them before you put them in the kettle. I have a 15 gallon SS brewtech kettle and like it, the trub dam is pretty good but it seems to get a little overwhelmed with...

5 gallons of brown malt test batch 9602

Yeah I'm easily two grand into kit and counting. Dropped 750 on a pair of brewjackets with the idea that I'll just get another FastFerment. However getting the jacket onto the FF on the wall mounts was a real bitch, so now I'm eying up a 7 gallon chronical or two and trying to talk myself out of...

Got a brown ale experiment in the works, Maris otter, brown malt and extra dark crystal, EKG and styrians in the boil. 1335 yeast and the first run with the brewjacket

I expect that 15 feet will do the trick. I have an order in with ritebrew for some more shanks, couplers etc so once those arrive I'll do some testing. I am encouraged by the stout spout, i think that with a better line length it will pour stouts very nicely but should also works wonders with...

10 foot lines in 3/16, 11psi at 40F. They pour perfectly with the ventmatics

First impressions from back to back pours. Either the Intertap presents lower resistance to flow (and looking at the internals it probably does) or the rougher inner surfaces cause more carb to come out of solution compared to the ventmatics. The pour is faster with no change in serving...