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Thanks. Very helpful! I will read up a bit more on how SSRs operate.

I'm not an electrician but it seems odd that you would have voltage after the SSR. Even if you're getting voltage across the SSR when the PID isn't putting an out signal to the SSR, why isn't the element firing if there is voltage present? What's the voltage on the hot leg of your element...

x2 I had an issue with my 120V eRIMs and troubleshooted this way. I realized I had wired a double pole contactor wrong. The output was wired up to the wrong pole on the contactor. Trace your voltage and you'll figure out where the issue is.

I'm not and electrician, but I don't see any issue wiring it either way. Perhaps PJ has a preference, but I like seeing the contactor first. This way the SSR or SSVR does not always have voltage connected. The contactor acts as a switch so that no power goes to the SSVR unless the coil has...

I echo the comments to have a licensed electrician review your work or complete your build. FWIW, I am not an electrician. I was able to build the ebrewsupply 120V eRIMs build myself using basic tools and a multimeter. I'm pretty sure I triple checked my work before plugging in for the...

You want the 2NO switches. That means that both poles of the switch are normally open. The 1NO 1NC switches have one circuit that is completed when the switch is in the off position and one switch is open. You want both poles to close when the switch is in the on position. Closing both sides...

The switch on the pump is a single throw double pole (STDP). The others are shown as single throw single pole, but the illuminated switches that most people run are STDP and can be used for all switch instances noted in the diagram. Therefore, you can use STDP switches throughout your build...

The diagram indicates that it is intended for a 20A circuit. The 2000w element reflected in the diagram will push you above 15A.

Thanks for posting this! I was able to add a pair of dryer vent clamps for $1.99 that pushed me over the $300 mark.

*Not an electrician* You don't need a GFCI outlet/receptacle. I'd swap out your 30 amp breaker for a 30 amp GFCI breaker. I'm not sure they make GFCI receptacles rated at 30 amp 240V. The big thing here is to ensure that somewhere upstream of your brewery equipment you add GFCI protection...

I'm not sure you'll find contactors at your local Home Depot. You can get them from Auber, Amazon, or a number of other places. I wouldn't endorse any specific vendor. You need to make sure that it is rated to carry enough current for your heating elements and that the coil side of it is...

I'm not an electrician so take this for what it's worth. The fuses are intended to protect the components (i.e. your PIDs). The breakers like a 50A GFCI are there to protect your wiring. GFCI adds some additional protection when working in wet locations like a brewery. The coils act as...

I think it depends on what you have available to you. I brew in an unfinished detached garage that has a 100A sub panel. I use a 30A GFCI breaker wired to a standard (non-locking) 4 wire 30A receptacle. I have a standard 4 wire dryer plug connected to the receptacle that goes to twist locking...

There is an image on the Auber website that is pretty helpful in how to wire the SSVR.

Bumping an old thread. Base Camp (http://basecampbrewingco.com/) will fill corny kegs. I had two filled for a Super Bowl party. They charged something like $10-15/keg to clean them plus the cost of beer. It would have been cheaper to get one 1/2 bbl keg than it was to get two cornies...

You should double check this, but I think you can modify the existing diagram by doing the following: Run the neutral to C1. Remove the connection from L2 to C1. The voltage meter would need to have the connection from C1 moved to T2.

Either the switch or the contactor is letting the red hot leg through to the red leg side of the LED. You should be able to test each component to determine if one or the other is letting current through. My understanding of the LED in the SW1 is that it will work with 110V, but I think...

The jumper line is only hot when the switch is in the on position. Assuming your switch is in the off position, take a multimeter and you should be able to reflect no continuity between the fuse side of the switch and the jumper running up to the LED (i.e. it's open). If you do have continuity...

In the diagram the black leg is not being switched. The black leg is always hot to one leg of the LED. The red leg is hot coming off the contactor, run through a fuse, and into one side of the switch. Once the switch is in the "on" position, the red leg is run to both the other leg of the LED...

I think the difference is that in the wiring example for this build only one of the two hot legs is being run through the switch. The typical wiring diagram for the SW1 shows both hot legs being switched. My understanding is that one of the hot legs is always connected to the contactor, but...