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More of a mention than talking about it. I'd love to know more about what they're doing to eliminate it, though.

Damn, super late to this game. As someone who is currently sipping a kveik beer havested from Voss Bryggeri which used the local Voss kveik strain, I can attest to this being complete and utter BS. This part actually had me chuckling out loud, "you will see that this is a very serious thing in...

Drinking while typing will get you every time... ;) Meant to type possible. Fixed it now. Also fixed the other sentence that had a redundant exactly.

It's fairly unlikely that they are using SMB to control oxygen ingress, but I suppose it's possible. If Heady Topper is like any other NEIPA, their chlorides are much higher than their sulfates, and the sulfate level is significantly lower than a typical west coast IPA. So, I'd be interested in...

Where's Clurnt lately?

Hasn't there also been some speculation that the 34/70 strain is actually a kolsch one?

What brought me back to this thread after kind of writing it off when it first came out was that someone had mentioned that their NEIPAs in that thread had become significantly better. Was that you? Are you on the low-oxygen site's forum?

Good stuff! Thanks!

I think I tried to click on that link yesterday from my MacBook. It didn't work. But either way, I can just plug those numbers into my brun water spreadsheet. At 40mg/l it's not even adding all the sulfates I would more than likely want with some styles.

Oh sh!t, thanks. For some reason, I completely missed that post. Thanks a ton guys. It'll be a while before I can report back with any "results," but I'm really encouraged to take this next step. So just to make sure I'm doing my math right, if I'm adding 40mg/l (40ppm?), that basically...

Thanks a ton, very encouraging stuff. By going ahead and using the copper IC to chill before the mash and after the wort boil, I should actually make up the time it takes to bring the full volume to a boil. What is the dosage of smb that you would recommend for the first go-round?

So would you guys want to sum up just how bad my issues with going full-on LoDO are? 1) I only have a copper IC. 2) I really only have an aluminum pot for the boil. 3) I do BIAB, and no matter how slowly I've tried to pull the bag out, it still messes up the settled grain to end up with a...

awesome thanks! I was up in the air between two fairly contrasting styles right now - either a NEIPA or a black lager... Might just do the black lager now and the other one afterward since if they go well, I'll enter them into the Norwegian homebrewing competition. I have about 300ml of wlp830...

I'm just wondering, but besides the copper IC, have you done everything else completely LoDO? When you chill to mash temps after boiling did you use it then as well? I'll probably have the SMB by my next brew, I do BIAB. Should I just go with 25mg/l to start out with, or a bit higher...

Except it's not. Check out the site. Listen to the podcast. Read from the sources. Look up the way that these larger, famous breweries are doing it. The best ones (as far as process and control, regardless of whether or not they're brewing great classic styles or cheap macro lagers) are...

Some guy on a Norwegian brewing forum had a 25kg bag said he'd ship ~200g to me for the cost of shipping. Just make sure the campden tablets aren't potassium. You can find it on amazon France, Germany, U.K. I didn't check the Italian site, but I do t see why it'd be any different.

You're Bryan right? I gotta tell you, you should really push the interview with Fermentation Nation. After listening to that podcast and finding out I can get sodium metabisulphite here, I got pretty excited about trying this out in order to improve my beers.

I mean, I haven't even started employing some of the major aspects of the LoDO method, and my wife already recognizes the term... I like LoDO best, and I pronounce it low-dough.

So you've just been using your copper IC this whole time?

One thing that this will likely force me to kick my butt into getting around to finding a solution for is building a condensate stack of sorts so that I can boil in my SS kettle. But would the brewtan b help against the fact that I've been boiling in an aluminum pot in the winter? Or has anybody...