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Don't worry about it. You could pitch half or the whole thing. If you chose to pitch half, the benefit would be saving the other half for your next 2 gallon brew.

count me in

reading the BJCP style book can help with recipe writing too. it's free to download

this happened to me many times early in my brewing career. if it's already been a month, you probably won't see any further drop in FG. it has been suggested to me in the past that i add a smack pack of yeast to finish the ferment, but i have never actually tried it. i generally just suck it up...

if you haven't used adjuncts like flaked barley before, now could be a good time to give that a shot. i second yooper's suggestion of adding black malt (which i mentioned in my first post). or just make the recipe you wrote and tinker with it. posting potential recipes just opens you up to...

first problem i notice is that caramelized malt makes up over 15% of your fermentables. also, as the previous poster pointed out, you have an awful lot of different stuff in there. finally, why do you want to add sugar? do you really want to lighten the body of your porter, or were you just...

try brewing beers with a single hop variety with increasing amounts and methods (late hopping, dry hopping, etc) to find the floral/bitter balance that you prefer. this can really help you develop your palate for particular varieties as well. one day you'll be able to recognize which hop variety...

edit: my post wasn't very helpful. i will address the questions in the process. you can skip the 2 step sparge and do a single sparge if you have the space in your mash tun (which you do with a 10gallon rubbermaid) 60 vs 90 minute boil is a matter of personal preference. if you are not using...

don't sweat it. a few days without refrigeration won't hurt either the hops or yeast. use them with confidence

so when talking about when to add stuff to the boil, the "minutes" refer to "how many minutes are left until the boil is done." so when i say 0 minutes, i mean the boil is now over. you have boiled for 60 minutes and now there are 0 minutes in the boil. that is what i mean by knock out and flame...

yes, of course. assume the person you're talking to has no idea how to make beer, it is the only way to be internet social. i don't know anyone who doesn't use a bottling bucket, experienced or inexperienced.

my mistake. 3 gallon glass carboys, not 3.5 3 gallon carboy

there are 3.5 gal carboys available from most brewing equipment suppliers.

my fg stabilized at 1.010 for a while. of course i take hydrometer samples before racking. maybe you shouldn't assume the person you're talking to is a total novice if you really don't want to appear to come off "harsh". my experimentation came from this post earlier in the discussion i was...

yeah ok, you can ridicule and criticize me for coming to my own conclusion though experimentation. you could criticize everyone else out there who spouts off some stupid bull**** they read in a book, but you're not. edit: here are my brewing notes. please, feel free to ridicule and criticize my...

except that alpine is way out in the middle of nowhere

excuse my hyperbole. but you know what i mean. you can hit 70 with a false bottom, just work on your method. it's all about your method. also, look into getting fly sparging capability. it is the way to go.

well, between flame out and chilling. you don't want to put anything in the beer after chilling it. but you already knew that

after participating in this discussion i decided to experiment a little. i made a beer and dry hopped it in primary, no secondary at all. i'm bottling that beer right now and it's the cloudiest, least appealing looking beer i've ever bottled. i usually secondary my beers and they are never this...

add spices at or around knockout. so if you add your flavor hops at 0 minutes in the boil, then yes.