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Just gonna echo the second poster and say you are seeing the fine particles of break material and hops settling to the bottom (trub), not a yeast layer. You will know that fermentation has taken off when you see the liquid swirling around. As for hydrating yeast vs not hydrating yeast, I have...

This is a SMASH beer with 2 row and Citra, and it's fantastic! Using only 2 row seems to make a very fermentable wort and my FG is ~1.007, which is a great canvas for the Citra.

Whatever you decide to do, you should remember the 1g DME to 10ml starter ratio. If BS suggests a 1.75L starter then you should make one, but use 175g DME and 1.75L water. I bought a kitchen scale for yeast starters. edit: trying to be helpful

Incorrect. Nothing works well when the temperature is -30 outside. Nothing.

Since we're talking about it, I'll be bottling my dry hopped Citra Pale Ale tonight! Woo!

I use an inside/outside gasket combo for my weldless ball valve. I believe this will fix your problem edit: You could take MaxStout's advice and try shearing off the bottom part of that washer to clear the weld. It is likely that there's some overlap issue causing the seal to not be tight...

I don't think I have ever used the BeerSmith yeast starter page. I have always done 1L starters with 100g DME for beers up to 1.065-ish. I recently got a bigger vessel for starters so for my last batch I did a 2L starter with 200g DME, which will probably be my default from now on. But I think...

Their beef is the sanitation issue, yes. But they're a bunch of grouchy old codgers who have probably been siphon bottling since nineteen-dickety. Whatever. I don't have a problem with either method, but they just don't carry buckets with spigots. I try to support the LHBS so I buy what I can...

I'm gonna go ahead and say that if you didn't properly aerate your wort prior to pitching the yeast, your gravity would have ended higher than your friend's. I won't speculate about all the things that could have gone wrong with your brew, since that has already been done, but I will say rather...

Sorry to get back to you late. Yes, I suggest siphon bottling, but that's the only way I do it. My LHBS is pretty negative about tapped buckets so I don't have any. If you can come up with a racking cane, that makes the process pretty flawless. I have never tried bottling with an open ended...

You can get a lot of mileage out of those little bottles. The first few, however, will probably go faster because (if you're like me) you will probably err on the side of too much O2.

I did ~15 batches with my first bottle. I'm on my second now.

Above is a picture of the regulator. It's just a black knob with no indication of any kind. I just open it until the air stone at the bottom barely causes bubbles to surface. Then I stir slowly for 30 seconds and turn it off.

That product on Amazon isn't the same thing as the William's O2 system for use with disposable welding oxygen tanks. That product is for refillable O2 tanks. I have the product that the original poster is asking about and I think that what really makes it a great product is the stainless wand/O2...

At this point in the process I would wager there isn't much risk of infection. Of all those options I think that the grain bucket should be your bottling bucket. Just put beer and sugar in it, give it a mix and fill bottles. There is a higher amount of alcohol than sugar in your beer, so...

+1 to all the individuals pointing out that cold water top up is not possible when brewing all grain. When you graduate to the harder stuff you might find yourself wishing you had that immersion chiller.

I guess it depends on whether you could get a stopper/airlock combo into the top of the jug. A 5 gallon jug will not be suitable for primary fermentation because it probably doesn't have enough room to allow for an active fermentation without a ton of stuff blowing out. That's why most...

I have been experimenting with hop standing lately by making dry hopped SMASH pale ales. I add only a modest 60 minute addition - enough to hit your desired IBU as late hopping will not contribute to your IBU in any significant way (I have made some undesirably mild pales by thinking I would get...

Isn't that not a SMASH beer any more? I count two hops Coincidentally, I jut brewed a 2-row/Citra SMASH pale ale. Hit all targets, great brew day

use enough 2 row to achieve 1.075 OG 0.25-0.5# crystal 20 (i would use 0.25) definitely consider hopstanding. I am currently brewing a beer that i added 37.4 IBU of citra @ 60 minutes and when the boil is over I will cool to ~190* and add 3.2 oz citra (13.7%) and hop stand for 60 minutes...