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Kegs do solve problems, but not all. I still bottle a lot of beers, just because having a keg of a 8% ABV Dark Weizenbock is not something I would finish quickly, so it would stop from using that keg for, say experiments with different hops. A hoppy IPA I can have serving in 12-15 days, and even...

Adding water will dilute the beer - your purpose is to adjust OG. You end up with more " beer "/" liquid ", which means, you will need more sugar - just think that instead of 20 bottles, you had to bottle 25 - that extra liquid also needs to be carbonated. But it depends how much sugar you...

Up to around 1.045-1.050, 1 sachet would be enough for 19-23 liters ( final amount ). I used to pitch 1 sachet for beers with gravities in the .60's. I've started pitching 2 sachets for anything between 1.055-1.070, and my experience ( definitely limited - only about 120 batches ) is that I do...

Like MrPhyr said above, honey is almost entirely fermentable, which means it will be converted into alcohol. Honey flavour is hard to trap into a beer. Adding it in the last 5 minutes of the boil, would possibly add some flavour, but I would think it will be proeminent in a light lager/ale sort...

I've fined with gelatin many times and have bottled many batches, without any issues. I don't think gelatin was the problem ( unless the gelatin contained something else besides just gelatin - like something that inhibits yeast, maybe? ). When you bottle beers, no matter the ABV, original and...

I really like Bestmalz. Dingemanns is also fair, but I do get a better flavour and efficiency with Bestmalz.

The hydrometer sample and the glass, look similar. Hazy beer will always give off the impression it is lighter in colour. I think whatever recipe you followed + process + malts used, etc. simply made a darker beer than intended. Cream Ales should be very light in colour, like 2.5 - 3 SRM, but...

So the pictures you posted are not saying much, as you did not use the exact same glass or test tube to take pictures of the beer from fermenter and then form the bottle. Colour will be darker in a glass when compared to a narrow hydrometer tube, as the volume of liquid and the depth is...

Whirlpooling hops will still add bitterness, and depending on hops ( AA% ), temeprature and duration, you can extract enough to make your NEIPA more bitter than you wanted. Also, dry hopping does add some " perceived " bitterness - in the past, it was thought that dry hopping does not add...

I was expecting reactions telling me it's too much or busy. So the pineapple and orange might be too much, I give you that. I am not going after a Vitus-type weizenbock, but a much darker one with the corresponding flavours, something like Schneider TAP6 - caramel, some light chocolate/toasted...

Hello, 'tis the season of dark beers and I've been set up by friends, to concoct a dark, spiced beer. I've settled on a Dark Weizenbock, which I will double mash. One mash will be done at a lower temperature, whereas the second will be done at around 70C/158F. The recipe will include all...

There are several Kveik strains... which one did you use? May we know the full recipe, fermentation temperature and schedule, etc.? You might be tasting and smelling molasses, but you/your brain associates what you are actually smelling, with the smell of molasses. If it is an off-flavour, it...

Simple answer is " No ". A lot of NEIPAs finish ( due to heavy dosage of dry hops ) finish at 4.5-4.6-4.7, and so on... A lot of English ales fiunish at 3.9-4.0-4.1 and they are fine. Dry stouts are incredibly acrid for my taste and the pH of such beer reflects and increased acidity, but that...

bwible - If you haven't used Ahtanum, El Dorado and Mosaic, then this is your chance. A hop that hasn't been used as extensively as the ones mentioned above, would be Comet. Bravo is another understated one. An old-school Pale needs a bit of pine, spicy, herbal notes, so a bit of Chinook...

I don't have a brewing shed or a customised space to brew in, but I'm glad I live in a house. On its own, this allows for more flexibility. I mash and boil outside, on the patio/terrace and then I move the kettle inside, in the kitchen to hook it up to water, for chilling and transferring the...

Yes. I've done it plenty of times, mostly using Nottingham as the second yeast, as it has high attenuation, it's rather clean and will flocculate well and fast.

T-58 wouldn't attenuate more than 1318, but I've had both attenuate in the 77-78%, when treated right. I don't think you'll have issues, but for bottling, I would just use the yeast that you already fermented the beer with, or get yourself some F-2 from Fermentis or CBC-1 from Lallemand.

You do want to mash all malt together, especially when using Crystal and Roasted malts. They might not have much starches in them, but they will provide aroma, flavour and colour to the final beer, so if you're not mashing those, you'll not be getting a lot from them. This is my experience. I've...

Homebrewtalk forum Scott Janish The Mad Fermentationist Jimsbeerkit UK forum ( and use the water calculator from there ) I don't read any magazines I do a lot of searches on the Internet, sometimes going through the same threads, articles, etc. several times, as I believe that, you can easily...

I haven't experienced any overly carbonated bottles whenever using S-33, even after a few months. But the latest batch brewed with S-33 went in the keg and its apparent attenuation was 83%, as mentioned earlier. I got 86% with US-05. I can't put my finger on what happended. I am happy to assume...