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Hi there. Here are the replies to your questions, in the same order: 1. No, I did not use yeast nutrient. I actually underpitched. 2. There was a slight tartness in the taste. The Bubblegum/overripe banana showed itself during fermentation, and especially when it blew up like that. 3. Mash pH...

This is my usual mash water profile: 200 ppm Cl / 100 ppm SO4 / 155 ppm Ca / 5 ppm Mg / 10 ppm Na ( Na rises when adding baking soda - depending on recipe - anywhere between 60 and 100 ppm Na ) pH Target: 5.40-5.50

I brewed a 8.9% Dark Weizenbock and a 7.4% Stout for Christmas. Due to the pandemic times we are in, I didn't want to go to town and have labels printed at a shop, so I decided to go with simple labels. This is the 3rd time I've made this kind of labels.

I've used WLP644 and its equivalents from other yeast companies. It is not belgiany or wild in any way. It is also used in IPAs and NEIPAs, so it's definitely fruity when fermented warm. So don't expect it to be belgiany in any way, although a slight tartness might be produced, which makes...

Best to add it during the mash. If you are past that step, I would say not add it at all now. You could maybe dose a bit of baking soda to the finished beer, and test if it smoothens it out. But it depends heavily on whether the final beer will develop sour notes.

Dark beers - due to the amounts of crystal/caramel and roasted malts ( which are more acidic than base malts ) - do not require acid adjustments to lower pH. Dark beers benefit from a mash pH between 5.3 and 5.6, so around 5.5 is where you want to be. As roasted malts are acidic, they will lower...

It really depends on the recipe, yeast, fermentation temp. and schedule and your own process. But even higher ABV beers, don't really need 6 weeks, unless you are adding adjuncts like cocoa/coffee beans, vanilla, coconut, wood chips/spirals, fruit, etc. which do need to stay in contact with the...

Can you provide us with the one recipe which was good, yet not what you are looking for? I brewed some West Coast recipes back in 2017, which came out very good. One of these, I brewed a few times, using each time a different yeast, and although it was the same recipe, they had very minor...

The clove is missing as it is POF- : https://fermentis.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/Beer-yeast-chart.pdf - this is from 2019, but should still apply.

Seeing that it does not have a huge estery profile ( and it's POF- ) and Fermentis recommends cropping it - I would probably mash a little higher, drive the OG upwards 1.085-1.095 and ferment at 68F/20C in the first 2-3 days ( the yeast does ferment fast ) and then rise to 72-75F for the rest of...

Windosr and London ESB do not ferment maltotriose, so make sure to mash low and long, and add a 5-ish% sugars. Windsor is more estery, whereas ESB is a bit neutral, so either one will work well. I would also recommend Fermentis S-33, which if treated right, works well in Bitters and also IPAs...

For 20-25 liters of beer with a starting gravity of 1.083, I would use 3 sachets/packs. So that's 1.5 sachets. Use 2 full sachets and raise your OG with 5-10 points, and you will be fine. I've put your recipe through a calculator and with 67% efficiency, you would end up with an OG of 1.083. To...

I have dry hopped for 5-6 days in the past, but quickly gave it up. I now dry hop for 48 hours - anything from 100 gr/3.5 oz to 300 gr/10.5 oz for 5.5 gallons final volume.

I haven't brewed this particular recipe, but once the beer is finished fermenting, you can safely bottle it and condition it for a few weeks at 7C and then start drinking it. But I would say 3 weeks in the fermenter is a long time and unnecessary. If you follow a correct fermenting schedule and...

It looks like krausen. It didn't drop yet, but if you slowly cold crash it, it will drop entirely. You can of course just rack / transfer from underneath.

There will be enough yeast to create carbonation, even when the beer was cold crashed for several days. So I wouldn't worry. However, there seems to be some flaws in the brewing process - really, no beer needs 4-6 weeks in the fermenter. If it stayed 4-6 weeks and then eventually refermented in...

I can assure you that it is impossible to get proper carbonation with only 1 gram of white sugar for 1 liter of beer, no matter the OG, the recipe, ale/lager, etc. For any kind of beer, you need around 4.5 grams per liter to get a carbonation level of around 2.0 vol. CO2 which is low for a lot...

If you intend on brewing something similar to the recipe you found above, and you want to use honey, simplify the recipe. Just go with Pale malt and some Honey malt. Then add honey on top of that. Honey, being such a subtle flavour, it will kinda get lost in there with the Munich, different...

Yeah... :) Kegging does come with more things you need to have for it and it is more expensive. Bottling works just as fine, when you do everything right. Your beers wont carbonate further, unless the yeast slowly eats more sugars, but that will not happen, not after 3 months. Just try to...

That's great water for brewing any style, with the right adjustments and process. For malt centric beers, I would up the Cl in the mash ( and sparge - if you sparge ) to around 150-200 ppm, and making sure that sulfates stay lower, but not much lower. Something like 75-125 ppm would be fine...