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Quality Pilsner and Maris Otter. But I wouldn't be able to pick a third. It depends heavily on which styles of beer you usually brew, so go from there. As I brew more English and Belgian inspired beer, the first two makes sense, and they work as fine in anything else, from Sours, to IPAs, NEIPA...

The colour is gorgeous! What exactly is the issue? Are you displeased that the colour is very pale or because it is hazy, or both? The colour will appear darker when the haze is not as thick. Maybe you expected it to be tad orangey?

10 minutes is a long time for beer head to stick around, unless you somewhat continously swirl the beer in the glass or every time you sip from it. Lacing is another story - good lacing will dry out on the sides of the glass. I mean, I've seen good head and lacing with some german and english...

The newest Lallemand Verdant yeast is a 1318 derivative, as 1318 was Verdant's house yeast, which mutated, etc. and then they talked with Lallemand and now we have another English* dry yeast. I've used it a couple of times and will be using it again, for both IPAs, DIPAs, Imperial Stouts, Red...

Kickass - I actually do not enjoy hazies or New England IPAs, as much as old school/West Coast/ " clear " IPAs. The name derives more from the occasional state I find myself in, after an evening of indulging too many beers. But in all fairness, I have cold crashed dark beers before. These were...

I have a hard time imagining that anyone can distinguish a " brilliantly " clear stout from a non-fined one - unless the stouts are under 35-40 SRM and more brown than black. And appealing how exactly? A dark beer should be dark, meaning you shouldn't be able to shine a light or flashlight...

Co-pitched, so at the same time.

It will work and certainly not a crime, but I doubt Nottingham will get you 77% apparent attenuation when you have mashed that high. Verdant can get you 75-76% apparent attenuation, but you need to mash low and longer*. Nottingham is around 77-79% constantly when mashed low, but does take a hit...

I use the 220V/EU version and my boil-off rate, especially during warmer season is around 3-4 liters per hour. A bit less, so only around 3 liters during winter, at around -5C. 1 gallon is around 3.8 liters. Also, never boil with a full/partial lid on. It will not benefit your beer.

I hope you mean 65F/18C and not 165F - raising the temperature might encourage the yeast to munch on some sugars - just keep it there a few days.

Some yeast will kick off fermentation again, when warmed up, but this is a scenario that can happen, and will not neccessarily happen for you. Your recipe and mash temperature suggests that you will not reach max. attenuation, but 1.030 seems a tad too high. But in the end, if gravity is...

We need more information on the recipe: what was the exact mash temperature and are you 100% sure it was actually correct? For me it seems your yeast pitch was low for a 10C fermentation temperature. I assume that you raised the temperature of the beer after two weeks, in order to force the...

Centennial and Chinook will probably work best, but they will also be a bit different. In this recipe, I think you wouldn't go wrong with either.

Recipe looks fine as it and will certainly make beer. For my personal taste and from experience, both from drinking and brewing Saisons, I would: - only use Pilsner malt. If you want to bring the colour up, use Vienna malt and make it 50% of the grain bill. The light toasty, biscuity notes from...

It's strange you get hop burn ( if hop burn at all - you also mention the beer lacks aroma, which is what dry hopping should amplify - so maybe oxidation aswell? ) with that little amount of hops in the dry hop. I've dry hopped ( 5-5.5 gallons ) bigger batches than you, with anything from 150 to...

I am not aware of any doable/working solution to what you are asking. It's gonne remain the way it is up to the point it's either too old or oxidised heavily. Bitterness can mellow out in time, but we are talking many months/years, at which point any hoppy beer, would lose its hoppiness and...

It came out at 8.9% ABV. I fermented at around 63F/17C for the first 2 days and then ramped the temperature to 68F/20C for the remaining of fermentation. I bottled it at 13 days. Aroma: there's clear notes of dark fruit, cherry-cherry stone, not neccessarily banana, but an overall overripe...

Dark Weizenbock - 11 days in the bottle:

It looks like yeast rafts, so completely normal. Make sure that, whenever you open the fermenter for any reason, to not dissolve too much oxygen and sanitise everything that goes in contact with the beer. The less you mess around with the beer, the better it will be. ( but if you have to open...

For 5 gallons, you should be fine with 1 sachet. I've started pitching a bit more and for me, it made things better. Take this with a grain of salt, as this is my personal experience across only 40-50 batches. The Lallemand yeast pitch calculator is a great tool, which comes in handy when in...