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Yes, changing hy2 'on the fly' should have effect (but it might not update until next heating/cooling cycle, I don't remember...). And it won't affect the currently running profile (that is the, profile will continue running as normal). So, it would be 'safe' to 'fiddle' with hy2 :)

I would like to say 'cool' and 'nice job'. So, I'll say that first. Cool! Nice job! However, as much as I dislike Apple, I have a sweet spot for vintage computers, and I really can't help feeling bad for that poor little drive. Even if it was broken to begin with, a Gotek conversion (preferably...

Hi! I'm interested in this as well :) If anyone has any stories to share, that'd be cool. So first off, setting up 2nd probe is power user stuff. I would recommend *not* enabling 2nd probe to begin with. Single probe works nice enough and should offer less surprises. Then I imagine, to properly...

@stbernts: You are trying to upload the wrong file. Use one of the .ino files that suit your needs (or better yet, use the sketch generator to dowload the .ino). Cheers!

You might want to disclose to the casual reader that you are the owner of BrewTroller.

The 'plans' circulating around are badly designed (heat rising into the socket and no ventilation). You don't need a lot of heat, since it is in an enclosed, insulated space, and slow temperature changes really are preferred anyway. Basically, avoid anything that would get too hot to touch...

Paint can heaters needs to stop, as does space heaters. Use a low wattage, low heat density heater and preferrably a properly sized fuse and some overheating protection.

It is the one unpopulated pad right next to the tempprobe terminals. The board is actually prepared to house a three pole terminal, but only two are used, so for pump control, the third (and normally unused) one, comes into play.

@dave-s : Hi! Cool :) How have you hooked up the pump? Since you are asking about PO output, I'm guessing you have it hooked up through one of the relays? The firmware does support controlling a pump, but the signal for controlling the pump is not through the relay. The relays are for...

Assuming you don't really need to cool, but just maintain temp, a simple solution is a cooler filled with ice/water and a thermostat controlled small water pump. You can either go with a jacket or just put the carboy or fermenting bucket in another bucket, that you recirculate the water through...

This is the exact thing I would say also. Possible fourth would be quality ingredients.

Sure. You can already find a version on github that is (pretty much) the same, except with minutes instead of hours. Or you can use the sketch generator, and select 'STC-1000+ (minute timebase)' to download the sketch.

I see no reason that won't work. The pins would be the the same, D9, D8, GND, 5v and D3. See github for details. But I don't think I've heard of anybody else using it, so while I don't think there is anything to it, you're on your own. And yes, the Arduino clones are dirt cheap on ebay (but...

@CNevay: I'd say so, I know of a few other guys that'd also say so. I'm sure there's a few people cursing at it as well :) To put it like this, I'd consider OVBSC pretty stable, but it might not be the user friendliest controller out there.

@hidara: I suggest using a linux distribution for development. A virtual machine with linux should be fine. I've made some pointers on setting up a development environment on the WIKI. The source code is located in the src directory. There are not that many files, so you should be able to find...

Idk, how far have you come and how much you got left? ;) Not at all. I've not made any progress, because I've not worked on it at all. I've just not had the time and/or motivation :) It should be in an almost usable state though, so why don't you try it out? Maybe give it a little spit and...

@hidara: You'd have to do some coding to make the changes you need. It does not support minutes as is. Cheers!

@Traz1986: This is off topic for this thread, so I suggest asking in a more appropriate thread. But as you asked, I'd like to point out that STC-1000+ is not a temperature controller per se (though it is targeted for the STC-1000 controller), but a firmware replacement (i.e. it is my pet project...

It looks like it is just another layout of the same basic idea. You cant tell from the picture which cap is the timing cap (I'd guess C4). You'd need to measure the connections. If putting in an electrolyte, you'd need to know polarity anyway.

Start the profile.Change St to 3. (Change SP if wanted/needed). Wait an hour. It's pretty much been there from day 1. Pressing arrow up / down shows information (SP / profile + step + duration).