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No, you're right, there is no 5 gal Ale Pale I always just call it that cuz I have idiotic tendencies. Are you saying the Ale Pale lid won't fit? Or are you saying it just won't fit with the original cooler lid, but the one you fabricated is ok?

Hmm, I never ferment in BetterBottles, though I do have two that I just use for secondaries. So you're saying a 5 gallon Ale Pale doesn't fit? That sux, because it seems a more efficient idea than the swamp bucket method...though I suppose I could ferment in a BetterBottle, you can't squeeze a...

Thanks for the wisdom, everyone. One last question, though... what about the ball valve? Can it be within the shroud without there being any danger of the o-rings melting? I would think the presence of the wort would keep the rubber seals around 212F without going any higher, but I just thought...

is that a 5 gallon carboy then being fit into a 15 gallon cooler? or does it only fit a 3 gallon?

How did you get the aluminum to stay put on the ends? Is it overlapping or is there a small gap at the intake?

And, also, is it only being racked to a secondary for the sake of the second coriander addition?

Why would you want to raise the burner? I would think you'd rather keep it closer to the ground so the top of the shroud would be above it as much as possible.

So its not Belgian Pilsen or Begian Pale ale malt? is that just straight up 2 row?

I just got around to measuring the distance between the burner and the bottom of the pot. It is exactly 4.5". I have determined that the wind, as well as having the gas flow valve open too far is what has been hampering my progress. I aim to make an aluminum shroud for my Banjo Burner, and I...

Its just a Banjo Burner sitting on the ground with a kettle on top of it. Maybe I don't understand the question, but its probably about six inches or so from burner to pot. And yes, it does smell like gas during use but I assumed that was just the smell of it being ignited. This is what I'm...

I believe Duffer may have the way of it on his guess #1. Its possible I am taxing my burner to hard with the control knob opened too far. Its likely I am just spewing out gas that never even got the chance to ignite. I think next time I will try it more slow and steady. This past beer was 130F...

Even if my burner was cranked, would it be THAT much more efficient had I had it set to a lower output? Does this truly lower its efficiency so greatly? It is possible that a combination of my having the control valve opened too far and unfavorable winds have influenced my results up to this...

the valve on the tank or the control valve on the regulator?

it can sometimes be windier than I would like, I am 1/2 mile from the beach. This past time, however, it was not very windy. I can certify that I do not have a gas leek, too. I heat my mash and sparge water on my stove. Do you crank the flame all the way or keep it at medium?

this 3rd batch I started out at a lower temp because I (stupidly) added cold water to bring it up to 6 gallons. Even still, I am belting out an obnoxious amount of resources and getting very little in return. it seems like I should rig the burner so it is closer to the pot, but I don't see why...

Out of my first tank I only got 1.5 batches of beer. During the second one I had to move my pot inside. I got a new tank and brewed again last week. Only 6 gallons of wort took 90 minutes to boil, i could barely maintain the boil (as usual) and the tank petered out just as I was finishing...it...

Is it feasible to make a 1 gallon starter with one vial of yeast, cold crash it, pour off the fake 'beer', then make another starter wort and pitch it on top of the cake...and so on, and so on. If so much starter is necessary for 1.07 and up, why not just prepare it in one container?

...but the common consensus is that making a starter with dry yeast is bad...

Here's one. Say some guy I know is brewing a beer tomorrow with an (unexpected) estimated o.g. of 1.073 (but he rarely hits it). He only ordered one pack of Safale 05, but he happens to have a pack of 04 as well. He thinks these yeasts may be similar enough to pitch together and produce a tasty...

John Palmer sites using 1/2 cup of DME for 1 cup of water to make a starter for liquid yeast. Does that mean then that to make a 1/2 gallon starter, one should use 4 cups of DME and 2 qts. of water? That seems excessive and expensive to me. And, similarly, if a 3L starter is recommended for high...