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OHHH, yeah. I mean I guess you still have the pid temp readings to turn it back off with but what I was talking about with a bypass was for my pump. If it drops below the approp. temp it'll kick on the pump to run the mash thru the heat exchanger till it warms up.

Couldn't you wire around it with a switch to bypass the pid when you want it manual? I ask because I have 3 of these myself and this is my eventual plan...

On his or mine? I didn't see a linked pdf on mine and the one on his was only in several european languages that dind't include english.

This has been a problem with mine. The best documentation I've found for them is really the label on the side of the PID that tells you what each connector goes to/does. I knew that going in but the price was good so I thought I'd rely on the kindness of strangers to get me through. I did...

That was part of my reasoning. The heat sink alone for the 40a SSR I got from Auber is probable double the size of the entire PID so if it was really meant to regulate the power at that amperage it would have to be much beefier.

Well it's father's day so I'm sure many folk are otherwise occupied. Love to know though if you find out something from the lads at work.

I was actually going to ask a question very similar. I picked up 3 of Digital Display PID Temperature Controller SNR(1 Alarms) and the pin out for 3 and 4 are marked +/- for ssr. I wasn't sure if that was the power to trip the SSR or if it acted as a SSR in it's own right to power the element...

Cheeze and crackers. For a 3 tank system and the cost of all that I may as well just copper it all up. It'd be less expensive. Well, thanks for the heads up.

For the hoses that's good to know. All I can find at the local big box stores that can handle the temps is water heater hose which I'm questionable as to the food grade of. Those polysulfone QD connectors are what I'm looking for, kind of. Ideally I'd like the checked side (female) to have...

With the spunding valve you'd still need to have a regulator for each keg in your set up just to prevent a constant ventilation of CO2 for brews that want lower than your primary regulator is set for, correct? Or am I not correctly understanding what this is for? Is it used more like an...

I'm looking for 2 things. The main one is a quick disconnect for my (eventual)HERMS system. Seems like these days all you can find anywhere is the Shark Bite style of quick CONNECT. I need something that will preferably shut of the flow when I disconnect it, like the kind you'd find on an air...

Where is a good place to get them for my eventual HERMS system?

Presumably the eventual PID boxes would not include the PID controller then too? Very interested in this idea. 50a PID Box, let me know when you have it.

If it's that bad with only that much activation it's got to be bad seals on the lid. There's literally no way I can concieve of that that much water vapor could get inside just thru normal use.

I have this problem/had this problem. One thing I did to LESSEN it (still have it to an extent) is to put the temp sensor in a bottle of water. Less rapid temp change means less condensation. Seal and damprid or the Eva Dry things are helpful. I actually have 4 of the Eva-Dry units but can't...

All this makes me very glad my set up has enough room to allow for the coffin box rather than the collar. It's zero issue to mount the drip tray up there :)

I assume since you are mounting it to the front that you have a collar on your keezer. Could you mount the drip tray to a plate of some sort and mount the plate to the collar? Pics of the set up might help.

did you include a soundtrack that EMI finds offensive?

Pics or it didn't happen.

I agree 100%. One of the ways I actually talked my Mrs. into letting me pick up this hobby was that it is a real way to recycle all the time. I actually reuse (TRUE recycling) old bottles and kegs. I can use the spent grain as compost or in bread. All my keezer stuff is chock full of...