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I don't believe there's an outlet for the spa panel. It's more of a junction that goes between where you install your outlet and your main breaker box.

Ahhh, so if I take your meaning I could use run the wiring as originally intended but add the spa box before the stove outlet I was going to install, saving a lot of extra work.

Wow, that is a good deal. I bought Murray MP250GF 50-Amp 2 Pole 240-Volt Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter, which may wind up returning it's way to them in favor of said spa box. I already have a 50a in the main box so I could wire it to the spa box with no extra effort.

But I don't have a spa box. Can the GFI or GFCI or whatever be used in place of the regular breaker or does it have to be used in addition to a 50a in the main box?

Wow, thanks everyone. I feel a lot better about proceeding with my build. And that's very cool P-J. It looks tres professional so I assumed it was something like an autocad for electrical schematics or something.

right on. Some good ideas indeed.

One more nooby question while I'm proclaiming my ignorance. I see that particular style of schematic drawing done frequently. What is used to make it?

Question, mention of the spa box throws my build into a bit of spin. Do I need a 50a GFCI in ADDITION to a 50a in my main box? Can't I just use the 50a GFCI to cover both jobs of being a breaker and not getting me killed?

Ok, you've both answered my question but I'm going to ask it again in a slightly different way, because it's serious. There are two connecting screws on the element and nothing for a ground. As I understand it that is normal. Coming from the GFCI breaker in the main box there are four lines...

On my setup the wort comes out of the kettle, into the pump, thru the chiller, then it hits a t fitting in my copper pipe. both legs have ball valve shut offs. The first one leads back to the kettle for continuing cooling the wort. The second leads to a down spout that goes to my fermentation...

I used an angle grinder to cut the top off a half barrel keg to make a keggle and will be doing the same for my HLT. What is generally done for lids on these things? Or is that just skipped?

This may seem dumb but don't you HAVE to rack from the bottom since that's where the liquid is? As far as sludge clogging the mesh you just need it to be a big enough surface area that it's able to drain completely before becoming clogged. In my 8 gallon kettle the bazooka screen extends...

I definitely have a 220 heating element. I know THEORETICALLY the current is out of phase but as far as just wiring it I wanted to make sure that there's not another piece of kit that I need to hook up to make it work. I'm not an electrician but I am generally clever enough to follow a diagram...

I haven't started all grain yet but in my partial mash I have a bazooka screen on my kettle and it work nicely to keep the crap out of my primary. I planned on doing similar with all grain.

I keep looking at schematics and designs and before I actually put wire to anything I just want to be sure. In all of the designs I see it shows two hot wires going to the elements at 240v. I picked this one at random but they are all the same: JUST TO BE SURE, I'm running the two hots...

Make sure it's 50a GFCI. May as well do it right from the start, unlike me :)

I guess my concern was running the pump less meant less chance of disturbing the grain bed. Admittedly I'm new, so new I haven't done it yet, to all grain so I've just been looking at other people's designs. My plan was to run 3 PIDs. One for HLT element, one for kettle element, and one for...

Yeah, the main breaker box where power comes into the house. I was doing a little work in there a couple weeks ago, cleaning and labeling, and saw that it was installed back when phone numbers were like KL5-5555 with letters at the begining of the prefix to denote what neighborhood you were in...

Hmm, I was looking at a PID for the boil element, one for the pump from the mash tun to warm it, and one for the HLT element. The pump for the heat exchanger will also pump to the kettle so I wanted to be able to bypass the PID when it's time to move it.

In the stream of me needing help, I'm hooking up a GFCI breaker for my HERMS and need to know if it's an issue that the neutral and ground lines in my main box are all connected to the same bar. Will this prevent/impede the proper function of the GFCI? Should I rewire the whole thing?