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OK, so long story short, yesterday we were making an ESB, our 3rd all grain beer. we were using a digital oven thermometer like this one and apparently they're not meant for liquid applications, since it broke and was giving us off temperatures. Unfortunately we didn't realize it was broken till...

but it sounds like the OP was talking about a normal starter "I was hoping to brew Saturday, but can't get the yeast til Saturday around noon, and i was going to make a starter." but maybe i misunderstood. :mug: cheers to greenman!!!

oh yeah... i make my own skis btw. :p so this just seems like the next step, especially if it will work for fermenting and hot boxing.

not for brewing. it would only be at that temp for 4-6 hours. it would be duel purpose, fermentation chamber at lower temps and for "hot boxing" skis. if you wax your skis and then let the wax sit on them at ~130*F for 4-6 hours, the wax will penetrate into the bases. this results it a better...

any what temperature range your controller will work up to? and how hot do you think you can get your chamber with that ceramic bulb? im looking into making a multi purpose chamber, but it needs to get pretty hot ~130*F

hmmm. sounds like it would work with a heat pad as well in a small insulated fermentation chamber such as yours. thanks. :)

so the temp controller just turns the heat lamp on and off at the socket or something?

so, on one of our last beers (partial mash IPA) we have brown sediment/yeast when we pour out the rest. the beer tastes off, but it could have just been the recipe? i don't know if its an infection that got into all of the bottles? has anybody experienced odd colored sediment in their bottles...

why not just make the starter ASAP and then just let the wort hang out in the primary and pitch once the starter is ready in a day or two?

no worries. i'll be moving soon as well, but who knows if i'll be in kirkland.

So, did you get the specific numbers? since we're in the same area, would you mind sharing your results? thanks :mug:

how cold does it get during the winter in SC? if you guys get snow or any sort of heavy frost, it would probably be better to get something heavier like a bark mulch, but if it doesn't get that cold, straw would be fine.

i wait till all the leaves have fallen off mine before i cut them down, just to ensure that all of the energy stored in the bines has been sucked back to the roots for a healthier plant next year. but it would probably be fine to cut them down since they're so yellow, most people cut them down...

Well, the lighter colored carboy (the one on the right, which had the very active fermentation and krausen) has reached the intended FG of 1.010 and the airlock isn't really bubbling any more. The darker carboy (the one on the left with steady fermentation) has only reached a gravity of 1.015...

well, we had a lot of cold or hot break and let it all settle out and then racked into sanitized carboys to reduce the trub/cold/hot break.

but its the same yeast from the same starter. once fermentation slows down, i'll check the gravity. im interested to see what happens. hopefully i don't loose 5 gallons.

Hey guys, I thought instead of starting a new thread, I'd just ask my question in this one. So I split my second all grain batch into two carboys ~5.5 gal each. this is my first batch larger than 6ish gallons. I had made a yeast starter and pour what looked like an equal amount by eye into each...

so, Rod, did you still use the hops? the aphids never fully left mine before they turned brown. :(

ok, there is another new thread that is pretty similar to this, can somebody please delete this thread?

So, I had a bunch of hops that I picked, I left them outside drying for too long, while waiting for all the aphids to leave the hops which they seemed to have been doing. So now all the bugs are gone, but the cones are very brown. Like straight up brown, not like only the tips are brown, the...