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I have a 20cf/5lb nitrogen cylinder for sale. Tank looks fine, orange in color. Empty of course. $50 shipped anywhere UPS goes (no PO boxes)

Sorry forgot to add ebay link.

Sold

Alright, if any fall through I am going in the order posted.

SOLD, thank you all

You are awesome. Thanks, now maybe I can go a different direction. This is what the forums are for, helping others thing in ways they might not normally. Value Added.

Hey, I just got a chance to get on and the pic is not coming up. Do you still have it so I can see it. I honestly hadn't even thought about using it, just figured I'd use simple switches.

Do you think I will be able to shut off one element to maintain boil or keep both on the whole time? Obviously testing will tell me this, but the JB Weld is still drying.

Ok so originally I was gonna go with a Camco 5500w element, PID, blah, blah, blah. But a separation has put me into an apartment without 240v readily available. I do however have 2 20amp circuits able to be used. I have 2 2000w elements ready to go into my keggle. I have read differing...

Ok, so I was wondering. If I use two 2 SSR's on the 5500W element, do the SSR's need to be 25A each or 40A each. Since I am only putting one leg per SSR is the 40A necessary on each or would the 25A be sufficient. Of course I would have heatsinks on each SSR.

I have to second the great quality if these. I just installed mine and am putting off measuring and marking. I had an old one from another vendor and it shattered maybe 5 brews into use. I can't see me breaking this one unless it is plain carelessness.

Hopefully I will be corrected if wrong but a lot of people use spa panels. They are usually 50-60 amp and have a GFCI built in.

I have an old ac unit mounted in an all styrofoam cabinet that is very sealed. I store it in my garage that is not cooled. While I have an external t-stat controlling power, I did not bypass the internal thermostat. I can run it down to about 50 before the internal t-stat cuts it off...

Give me one more reason to go all grain. Push me over the edge.

I have to agree. I had the 425's and just built a keezer with the 525's. I always push back on the handle to assure me it is not going to leak. I also find myself twisting the top trying to tighten it up. I kind of wish I had my 425's back.

http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/doc/zip/1861132525.html

I actually tape mine(with insulation) to an extra keg of just water that I keep in the fermenter. This temperature remains contstant and does not swing like a fermenting beer would. I then adjust my temperature slightly lower the first few days of fermentation to counteract the heat being put...

It is my understanding that soaking them in the bourbon for about a week does the job and putting them in the oven is not necessary.

You are not actually hitting the keg with a hammer. You are using the screwdriver to direct the power of the hammer to one part of the lid opening. You are doing this with the lid in so you can create a better seal between the lid and keg. I am also not saying to hit it as hard as you can...

I sometimes do when it is a bigger beer. I primarily use dry yeast so smaller beers just get the rehydrated yeast poured in. This was until yesterday when my 2000ml flask hit the garage floor. I still haven't brought myself to pick up the mess.