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if i had the equipment i would fly sparge since it seems easier to hit your preboil volume.

never had a sight glass but for me i would imagine the convenience of clearly reading the level on the outside of the pot from a distance as opposed to having to stick your head over the top and reading it in heat and water vapor would be worth the extra time cleaning it.

its pretty common to see kits that try to mimic lagers with ale yeast. but no matter how neutral the yeast is it will still be pretty clear that youre drinking an ale.

it seems to me that doing a no sparge and increasing the efficiency with other methods will give a difference in character to your wort. which is fine if you enjoy the beer you make but it would just be more difficult to imitate the classic styles of beers that mash traditionally.

in one of jamil's shows he said boiling it in plain water will give you about 20% more utilization but will also pull some harsh, grassy tastes. i would try it if your interested though. jamil made it sound like it was a reasonable thing to try and the off flavors wouldnt be so overwhelming...

theres a very slow leak of beer coming through between the post and the poppet. is this something i can just jimmy into place or should i buy a new posts?

I don't know much about BIAB so I'm just curious. If you get significant amounts of grain dust in the boil then doest that lead to problems with proteins like chill haze? or things like astringency? I'll hang up and listen.

Back at the beginning I pitched yeast on 100F wort. Then I just let it sit for a week barely fermenting. Thats been my only infected batch. When I first moved to all grain I tried to use an ultra thin aluminum pot from walmart. towards the end of the boil there was a gun shot type sound that...

did you get a quick and healthy fermentation? thats probably the reason for most infections in my opinion.

the way people tack on trivial steps to their sanitation process is like depositing pennies into a million dollar bank account. theres going to be plenty of rogue microorganisms no matter how crazy anal you are. but its beer and it will beat those things into submission.

Bud Light clone

if you pick those things up, especially by the neck, then it will stretch out a little bit pulling some fluid in from the air lock. i always fill the airlock up when i have the carboy positioned where i want it.

dont really understand why there would be negative pressure. is it a better bottle and are you moving it around with the airlock filled up?

thats a mute point

and you can wait to add your ice so its no wasted on cooling near boiling water.

if youre not worried about your water bill then i would do like ashplub says and connect your faucet to your radiator sitting in the sink. then to the top of your chiller. then have the chiller empty out in the other sink. fluid that has temperature differences tends to stratify with hot on...

Is the idea of recirculating with a pump to conserve water? And you want the cold water coming in at the top.

I'm thinking about getting these to make a couple bombers when I keg. I'm sure they'll be serviceable as long as I dont make a mysterious screwup with priming sugar and then try to add the tabs on top of it. I'm just wondering if its just as easy to measure out the sugar for each bottle and save...

is it possible that a bottle of 4oz kikkoman soy sauce was mislabeled?

Did Mr. Malty ever respond to that? It would be great equipment wise if you actually only needed to make starters a 1/3 of the size. Wish someone could just do their own lab experiment on a stirring plate, ballpark a growth factor, and decide which calculation is closer.