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I had brewed last year with a bad orifice. Something got in to the jet and clogged it, didn't realize it till the beginning of my boiling attempt. Took me 2 hours to boil my wort down to the desired level. It never hurts to take your equipment apart and check it/clean it.

Seeing the ingenuity of this, can it be completed with a Better bottle?? I think it's more realistic for the rest of us to drill a hole in to plastic than glass. I don't think I have the patience to drill through 1/2" glass.

If you are a resident, gun laws are actually really good. It is an open carry state, concealed carry is like $60. No constraints on mag size, automatic weapons with class 3. The only downside is the cost of AR-15s. YTC is ok, the PX is a shopette. I may be stationed there for WAARNG. Are you...

I wish I could! I live in Ellensburg.

That's what I was thinking. My guess is he had an extra carboy sitting around readily available for use.

Report of use: -Line up the Hours of Operation -If simply clicking on the menu bar link, opens up a file folder view (Probably just a work in process thing) - Made In The USA section is an awesome idea! Overall, this looks a lot better than the previous website. The new site is a lot smoother...

It's sounding like the only viable decision is to have two sets of brewing equipment for the different sizes of brewing. My true concern is the difference in outcome taste with running two separate systems. Would matching the surface area to batch size ratio be enough to maintain consistency...

That was my concern. If I took a 100 qt MLT that has a large surface area, the 2 or 3 gallon batch may dissipate heat too quickly for a 60 minute mash. Would it be appropriate to match the surface area to mash ratio in two different containers e.g. 20 qt cooler and a 100 qt cooler?

I am looking to get back into brewing again. I took a year off and finally find myself being pulled back into it (not a terrible thing, whatsoever). I'm building up my equipment again, doing everything right this time . I want to eventually go big enough that I can start perfecting brews good...

I know California is weird about stuff but on the shark PEX fittings it states that "chemicals in this product are known to cause cancer in the state of California". Do you guys second this notion or laugh at it???

The issue I've run into with a CPVC manifold is it floating up as I stir my mash to break up clumps. I use a non-glued design to avoid adding any possible toxins and fear that if I stir too hard I may release a joint.

If you're still looking for input, I could give it a run through! Looking to buy some more kegs from you store anyways :)

Here is a quick view of a recipe. I haven't mastered the art of ibrewmaster yet.

Hmm I didn't try scaling it down to 1 gallon but before you buy it let me see if it'll do it in a mock recipe.

You can select the size of wort desired and it will tell you initial boil volume. What else do you want to know about that subject specifically? I just inputted one of my own recipes and it gave me my anticipated OG and FG, as well as SRM and IBUs based off of my efficiency and hopping schedule.

So last night I brewed a Citralicous IPA, here's the recipe and timings: 9.5 lbs 2-row (I rounded up to 10 lbs) 1 lb of crystal 40L 8 oz of 1oz of citra @ boil 1oz of citra @ 30 1oz of citra @ 55 1oz dry hopped in secondary Mash @ 152 Sparge @ 170 OG of 1.060 FG of 1.013 Here's what...

Thanks, that will be my next step.

Not to Hi-jack the thread, but what does this tell me about my water? Is it acceptable for straight brewing? http://www.ci.ellensburg.wa.us/DocumentCenter/Home/View/402

You mean you guys haven't felt the power of a the Benford 3000 grain mill with optimized worm drive powered by a twin piston 150cc 96 octane motor?? We're men, we NEED power!

.... Who you callin' little? So if you do the math, gallon of water is about 8 lbs, 140 gallons, that's over HALF A TON! I hope you have a fork lift handy.