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There is a long thread in this forum about this yeast and lag time. You should read it :)

No, you shouldn't be worried, because you can not do anything about it now. Wait it out and taste it. Perhaps it will be the best beer you ever had?

I'm pretty sure that the advice they give is good advice. But like I wrote eariler, we can't just pick one thing they say and ignore the others. They depend on eachother. If you underpitch, straight into wort, with a package that has lost viability - not areating will not save you somehow...

Other than that I agree with what you say about dry yeast manufacturs "packing" the dry yeast with what is needed for fermentation. This is also why they say that if you are going to reuse the yeast, you need to make addition to make sure the yeast is healthy after fermentation.

From what I've read the Olive-Oil-Theory is another thing that has been misinterpreted, and passed on, by a lot of homebrewers. That original study was about storing yeast, not during active fermentation. I have not seen any study or experiment that showed that you could implement it...

I'm not saying that what you do does not work. But, what you are doing goes against the manufactures, and alot of knowledgeable peoples, recommendation. There are studies that shows that UP TO (some people misunderstand this for ALWAYS) 50% of the cells can die if you rehydrate in wort...

Yes, if you pitch the right amount of yeast and not plan to reuse the yeast. Note that the data sheet says that 100g/100hl (1g/liter) will give you 5-10 million cells per milliliter. That equals to about 100-200 billion cells per 5 gallons of wort. Also, they state a 25% decrease of living...

Well, top cropping and top fermenting does not mean the same. There are alot of terms that homebrewers use in one way, but they actually mean something else. Yeast washing when they mean yeast rinsing Lagering when they mean cold conditioning to name just two.

Are you talking about top/bottom-cropping or about top/bottom-fermenting?

A true top cropping yeast flocculates and rises to the surface when fermentation is going on and start to end. When you crop that yeast you get very actvive and clean yeast, almost no proteins, hop trub or other unwanted stuff.

Expected attenuation.

Why? For us who do top crop our yeast there is a huge difference.

First of all, how do you know that it is still fermenting? Are you checking the SG? Just because the airlock is bubbling does not mean that it is fermenting. Like you said, it could be done (if the SG is not dropping). It could be the yeast, it could be beacuase you didnt do a starter. It could...

I agree with the above.

It is not required by any means. You obviously had fermentation going well before 5 days since it was down to 1.037 after 4½. That is probably around 20-25% of your total fermentation done. Im just saying that when pitching yeast slurry and fermenting at 50F it is normal that things move abit...

Well, with no starter and at 50F it can take some time. It's not that strange.

Fermentation times varies and depends on a lot of factors. You did areate and pitch a good amount of healthy yeasts, 2 important factors. I usually make a "vitality starter" at the beginning of the brew day and pitch it when the wort is cooled. My normal times to reach FG is Ale: 4 days...

I don't use US-05 (or any other variant of that strain) anymore. But, I would raise the temperature to maybe 68* and give it some time. It might get those peachy flavors that people are reporting with low temperature. There is another thread (in Fermentation & Yeast) with a response from...

That link is to the old document. The new is http://www.fermentis.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/SafAle-US-053.pdf and says: ideally at 18-28°C (64-82°F)

This is more or less exactly what I have switched to doing. I get quick, nice and clean fermenting and it fit nicely into my brewing schedule. The only thing I sometimes do a bit diffrently is a quick rince before I pitch into the starter if there seem to be bit much trub in the jar.