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Great Fermentations because they sell grain by the ounce. You don’t have to buy a whole pound. Rite Brew for dry yeast and grain by the ounce. Label Peeler for dry yeast. YCH and YVH for hops because you can buy by the harvest year Hop Heaven because you can buy by the harvest year and Ted...

300+ ppm. Yep it’s that bad. do your faucets get build up on them? For comparison, unfiltered my water is 127.

I’m making this for ‘football food’ this Sunday. Thx for posting!

“BRY means BRewing Yeast. All yeasts from the culture collection of the Siebel Institute of Technology start with BRY. Regards Sylvie Sylvie Van Zandycke Ph.D. Director of Sales and Marketing Yeast/Bacteria/Nutrients | Lallemand Brewing”

Random chance. That’s why I try beers I’ve never tried. Maybe I’ll love it. Maybe not.

I imagine you overpitched by ~1 pack. I wouldn’t stress over it. What’s done is done.

When I transfer beer from fermenter (55°F Lager or 65°F Ale) to keg, I cold crash it (34°F) under the same CO2 pressure (10 psi) I plan to serve it (40°F). ~2 weeks at 34°F/10psi and move it to the serving side (40°F) and the beers are clear and nicely carbonated. IOW, I set those CO2 gauges and...

I own both. I am on my 175th batch. I started with two consecutive Brew Bags thru 174 batches. I brewed batch one in the Wilser yesterday. I recirculate thru the entire mash then pump to a boil kettle. I had absolutely no issues whatsoever with a full volume Hochkurz step mash 9 lb grain bill in...

I have a Tilt repeater to give me a signal from my basement. I set it on top of the ferment fridge so it grabs the signal from the Tilt floating in a stainless fermenter inside and sends it upstairs to my iPad.

I fill the keg with Iodophors and push it out with fermentation CO2. If I get the added benefit of low(er) O2 so be it. …but I do it to conserve CO2. It’s going to be produced anyway, I might as well use it to purge my keg so I don’t have to use bottled CO2 to purge it prior to closed transfer...

Closed transfer to keg: “Keep out the oxygen from the final package and keep the beer cold. And minimise the time from production to consumption. Worry about these things before anything else.” (Bamforth).

I mounted my HERMS coil horizontally in a pot and placed the heating element in the lid that sit in the middle of the coil when the lid is installed. I use it to maintain mash temp and then replace the hot water with cold to cool the post boil wort. I have to remove the water three or four times...

I brew about every three-four weeks because that’s about how long a keg lasts around here. I kick a keg, I brew pretty soon thereafter to fill it. So, 15 +/-2 brews a yr.

I use corn in KY Common and Cream Ale. That’s about it.

38 + 5 gal Ordinary Bitter = 43 gal

IDK if it specific to Perlick. The flow control shuttle would interfere with a ‘normal’ adapter.

I use Perlick flow control taps connected directly to the post/QD. I had to get an adapter so the flow control mechanism would operate correctly but it works great. I especially love the fact that I don’t have lines to clean. https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/forum/index.php?topic=25689.0

I dump them in the wood line so my wife can see the deer they attract

6.5 + 5 Dark Mild = 11.5

When I switched to all grain I used the same kettle and heat source I used when I brewed with extract. The all-in-one units are basically BIAB except they use a basket. Get yourself a basket (or bag) and you’re all set. Some of them recirculate. If you want to add that feature get some hose, a...