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Thanks. And since by design, an SSR will fail in the closed position, this should always be the case.

The switch is a simple toggle switch rated at 20 amps. It switches between the element on the HLT and the one on the BK. I don't use it to switch from one element to the other under load. But . . . I may have done so by mistake. I use a separate toggle switch on the PID output to the SSR...

If an SSR fails closed, would a good SSR test out open, i.e., would you read no resistance and that means it is still good?

Agree. With a PID set at 80% or 70% during the hard boil, you save a bit on the electric while keeping the boil going. But to do so, the SSR is constantly switching the element on and off. If you plan to just turn on the element and leave it at 100%, a mechanical switch might work fine -...

I finally got the element to work. Although I had it direct wired, I did have one leg still going through a selector switch (that I thought was good). . When measuring across each leg separately, I would get 120v. But when I finally checked across both legs I did not get 240v. So I...

I think I blew my SSR in the middle of a brew. So I wired past the SSR and direct wired the element to finish up the brew. But no heat and no amperage draw. Checked circuits and have 120 v on each leg going direct to the element. Replaced the element with a new one and still no heat and no...

I have a question that I hope was not already answered (couldn't get through all +800 posts). Why do you have to do a water bath to do the pausterization? Couldn't you use dry heat, i.e., just put the bottles into the oven at 160-190 degrees?

So when a recipe calls for "rye", are we talking "rye malt" or "flaked rye".

Seems like a 30 pound grain bill for a five gallon brew would yield a beer with an O.G. of -probably- at least 1.050. I have had a hard time getting much past 1.040, but then I usually do 20-25 pound / 10 gallon brews. I also fight the astrigency of second runnings. Seems like extra hops...

I wanted to see how this survey worked out up to this point, but couldn't without some sort of summary. So here it is. I think I got all the entries but apologize if I missed any. You can see by the number of entries which ones got the most "nominations". But the voting hasn't stopped. :mug...

Thanks. I checked the weight. 43.4# Tare weight is 11.2kg (or 25#) So the net is ~18#. Pretty close (if you include the little bit i used last night). I just expected a much higher pressure. Lots to learn.

I just bought a new 20# cylinder, got it filled, brought it home and it shows 650# overall pressure. I would have thought it would be well over 1000#. Heck, the guage markings suggest refilling at 500#. Did I get shortchanged?

Curious, do you have a good water supply, a deep utility sink to wash your equipment and, what I have found most important (since I am such a slob when I brew), is a good floor drain?

So what happened? I have soem sage growing profusely from this warm March and was thinking of adding to my next batch. Would love to hear of your results.

Can you post the ESB recipe that you used?

JeffersonJ, it's been over a month. Any word on how the Saaz dry hopping turned out?

A long time ago I read there is a forum just for retailers in the beer business. Not sure where though. If I can find it I'll pass it along. Good luck. I, too, would love to serve homebrewers. They sure are a friendly group!

I see a happy brew in the making. Just "bubbling" with joy!

I got about 10 #'s of Hallertau and ~8 #'s of Saaz from that giveaway at A-B. What a great event. Just bring in your trash bag and filler up. :mug: Well, I finally got my electric brewery going and did a 5 gallon batch using a SMASH recipe just to see how everything worked. (Still fixing...

You sound like me. I just finished a quite similar build and used Kal and PJ's informative help. Your spa panel looks a bit familiar - just like the Home Depot unit I bought after others suggested it as the best deal in town. :mug: My initial mistake was wiring the neutral to the heating...