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He's one of the vendors who advertise on this site.

I think you would want them when you first set-up just to see if everything is OK, after you are running a hand held volt meter would be nice for troubleshooting, but wiring a volt meter and ammeter into a system is a waste.

I've seen a lot of ways to mount a element on this site, some even go out of their way to cover everything in PVC pipe and silicone calk, but the electrical box in your post seems like the perfect solution. Do you have instructions or a link to some online instructions?

You can spend the money you save long term on more ingredients and brew more beer? No, wait, you said something bad!!! OK, you can't brew when the power is off. Is this bad enough for you?

Yes, or you can put a inline GFCI in the power cord.

Here are the links for each of these systems. For Mash and Boil Control: $799.00 - High Gravity EBC III http://www.highgravitybrew.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=3858&idcategory=158#.Ulrv01Ao5sQ $419.95 - Kegkits Complete 240V Electric Brew Controller with Element Switch...

I think I would want a setup where I did not have to unplug or switch anything.

I did some more chasing last night & found several 240V options. Has anyone used any of these? For Mash and Boil Control: $799.00 - High Gravity EBC III $419.95 - Kegkits Complete 240V Electric Brew Controller with Element Switch $359.95 - Kegkits Complete 240V Electric Brew Controller...

Looks to me like another one selling stuff he don't understand. The heat sink shown in the picture is under sized for 40 Amps unless you use forced air cooling. Even 20 Amps would make the heat sink very hot without cooling.

Here's one I found. http://www.kegkits.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=W&Product_Code=BC-240V&Category_Code=CNTRL

You could always do what this guy did. He installed his element though the back of a electrical box then used the green grounding screw inside the box to ground his brew pot. http://www.instructables.com/id/Installing-a-water-tank-heating-element-in-a-Polar/

There is a lot of good stuff on this site, but just like any other forum most of the "experts" are just passing along someone else's "opinion". So, read at your own risk and hire an Electrician if you aren't sure.

If your house was built in the 1970's or later you have two 20 Amp kitchen circuits and you can plug the second element in across the kitchen.

Yes it will, or buy one of these and attach the plug & socket you want. http://www.gfcistore.com/30-amp-inline-gfcis.html P/N PGFI-2301N is $136.00 - eBay is not always the best place to shop.

You are supposed to have 4 wires running to the SPA panel - H + H + N + G. But you can install the panel with just H + H + N and everything past the panel will be protected. The N wire goes to the G input of the panel and the G output wires to the G of your power plug. This is the U shaped...

The 1" conduit punch works fine if you can't find a 1-1/4" chassis punch - it makes the hole 1-3/16" - 1/16" larger than the 1-1/4" punch.

I wonder how many SSR faulures are really the user's fault and he does not know it's his fault? A SSR dissipates about 1 watt of heat per amp which means that a SSR controlling a 5500 Watt element produces about 22 watts of heat.

Did you decide which of these to go with?

Batteries won't work. Your beer tower cooler needs to be on all the time & not just when you are serving.

What about YANGJI or MAGER? These are what I'm running and both are Chinese brands advertised as Chinese parts.