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I think the twang comes from not aerating the wort properly before pitching yeast and/or unhealthy yeast prior to pitching (if the taste I experienced during the first 7 or 8 batches I produced was the taste you're associating with extract twang). And of course, now you're screaming at your...

If a beer is conditioned within the functioning temperature range of the yeast it will always reach the level of carbonation dictated by the amount of priming sugar added to the beer, and the amount of CO2 dissolved and suspended in the beer before bottling will affect the level of carbonation -...

I can perceive the carbonation in different styles of beer, and you have a fair point in that it is a more accurate way of getting a specific style of carbonation. I had a lovely pale ale in Oslo this weekend (I've struggled to find beer on tap in this style in this pilsner obsessed town), and...

Ha ha, nice. But on a serious note, if you're new to the wonderful craft of home brewing, and you're currently confused because you've read that your beer may not be fermenting even though more CO2 is going through your airlock than is produced by the population of China, I can reassure you...

I better get on with the rest of my day; this isn't benefiting the thread anyway.

The thread is entitled 'Airlock IS a good gauge of fermentation activity', and the quote you included was regarding someone moving there fermenter into a warmer climate and them experiencing airlock activity with no change in specific gravity. The only reason I was a 'wise ass', is because you...

Your post could be relevant to the comment on which you quoted, but I believe the debate we're having here is regarding the gauge of a start of a ferment, or of any fermentation activity - and subsequent fermentation with a stable temperature. At the start of a ferment, we pitch the yeast at the...

Ha ha, that couldn't be any funnier after Revvy's tired old diatribe on airlock activity not being a gauge of fermentation. I agree with it not being a negative indicator, but it sure can be a positive one. My airlocks are currently bubbling away like clappers. I better take a gravity reading...

Their instructions regarding the temperature for their lager yeast is explicitly and clearly stated in the instructions.

I noticed that you boiled your Coopers kit. This should not be done. As well as some off flavours, you can expect a very dark looking 'lager'.

This beer shouldn't be made with extra malt if you want it to taste anything close to a lager. I'd just go with 600g of dextrose and 500g of maltodextrin. This is typically what they make their BKE 1 out of. P.S, adding too much dextrose will not make it taste too dry. It will become fruity...

I suppose it has an advantage if you use different size bottles, but your first reason is based on a specific circumstance, as you're assuming everyone uses a bottling bucket; many people just use the 'dumping' technique you have just described so crassly. In regards to the mixing of dextrose...

You could do that and have the tubing eventually split and put far too much time and effort into it. Or you can just put the same tubing into the grommet.

You could use the previous method explained by the previous post, or you could just prime each bottle with a level teaspoon of dextrose (per 500ml bottle) or alter the stated amount according to the volume of bottle you're using. There's no need to boil the sugar; I've always found this to be...

They sure will, I carbonated the exact same kit at around that carbonation level. Though you might find that it is a bit heavy on the carbonation; I felt mine were obtrusively so. You shouldn't even carbonate lagers to that level. A wheat beer should be quite smooth in regards to carbonation...

Open fermentation should be practised with perfect timing in regards to when to bottle. When the beer stops fermenting, no CO2 is produced, therefore exposing your beer to oxygen. You can either pay close attention to the specific gravity, or if you don't feel confident in this and/or don't...

I didn't drink a clear home brew beer until I removed the chlorine from the water using Campdem tablets. I'm not sure how this could be related chemically, but that is my experience.

Well put, a lot of people seem to be writing about boiling the LME before brewing. This seems crazy to me, and completely unnecessary.

It depends which brand of Belgian Wit you're trying to emulate. For Wits like Du Monde Blanc/Hoegaarden, use about an oz of both and do leave them in the primary fermenter (these are heavy, one could even say overbearing, on the spices and fruit). The orange and coriander flavour diminishes...