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What would I set the logic to to set the element manually? Should I re run pid auto tune?

I brewed for the first time last night and had the exact same problem, also biab, the mash temp kept overshooting by 2-3 degrees, and I boiled off 2 gallons instead of a typical 1 gallon.

Alright, so for no sparge, a 1.25 liter per pound mash thickness and 16.75 pounds of grain, and 3 gallons of deadspace (16.75 x 1.25) / (11.3 / 16.75) =31 liters or about 8.2 gallons?

Should've mentioned it's for a 5.5 gallon target into the fermenter

Brewing for the first time tonight on my new ebiab system, I've done biab before and typically just used a simple web calculator, but my new system is a 15 gallon kettle, has an element and a false bottom. The false bottom sits around 3 inches tall and leaves about 3 gallons underneath it, it's...

Alright, got a new mount to bring it the panel up a little higher. Water test went fine, just a little leak on a pump fitting. Got 6 gallons of water from 60 to 160 in about 15 minutes. Also need to wire up the volt meter, misread auber's description saying it doesn't need a power supply...

From what I encountered. building my set up, you'll need 4 wires so the 120 has a neutral and a ground. But I'm no electrician. Probably best for Doug or bearded to answer that question. As for the raspberry pi power supply I bought one of these...

Is there any worry on getting things disassembled without the pipe tape on there?

Something like this dual pole switch I think would switch both lines. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-30-Amp-Industrial-Double-Pole-Switch-White-R62-03032-2WS/100356941

Things ate getting exciting! Alright so getting the kettle together, I've got the ball valves on with the cam locks, but the side pickup tube and the spin cycle have me worried, is it okay for this much threading to be exposed on the pick up, and should I take the exposed teflon off? And is...

Ah alright, thanks for the info, I'll hopefully get the kettle put together soon and test it all out

I got a 240 volt indicator for three element, it's connected to each line to the outlet, so it's on but then on brighter when the element is switched on, can I just get a 120v led and hook it up top the hot that is switched by the ssr? If like the element light to only be on when the ssr is...

Alright it was a loose neutral in the panel, everything is lit up! So exciting

Alright so figured out that we get 120 between the hot and neutral, at the plug, when no load is on it, once a load is applied the voltage drops and doesn't actually power anything. Good news, probably nothing wrong with the control panel I built, bad news, we have no idea why it's happening...

Entered

Alright so im thinking there's an issue with my spa panel, and or outlet, only getting 12 volts between the neutral and the hot wires

And going from 2 or 4 to the neutral on a2 is also just reading 10-12 volts

I'm now doubting those outlets were powered, but my little current tester was saying there was current, Ive disconnected everything, and just testing the voltage through the estop to the neutral terminal blocks im getting 12 volts. Which seems really weird

Rewired the switch to try and power just once off the outlets and a lamp, and nothing

And continuity between a1 and the power inlet, and a2 and the neutral inlet