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As posted a few weeks back, I want to share this observation on a bottle conditioned NEIPA I bottled on august 23rd (so this beer is now almost 2 months post bottling date). During this time, these two bottles were stored half on purpuse warmish, i.e. ca. 68-70 °F in my late-summer basement...

I agree, better err on the side of overpitching than the opposite for most brews. I also think that yeast calculators are definitely a great tool to get started and gather a feel for optimal pitching ranges, but they shouldn't be interpreted as gospel either. I wouldn't bother to split up...

You definitely can use the same yeast, Notty is known as a good attenuator if I'm not mistaken. But you should use 2 packages IMO. As for the bubbles, that might also just be excess CO2 escaping due to the temp increase... but hopefully there is also some fermentation going on ! Good luck

1.030 is still quite high. It was a big beer with 1.081 OG, so I guess that the yeast is stressed and has some trouble finishing its job. As one poster above noted, one pkg Notthingam for 5 Gal of 1.081 wort may not have been enough yeast. Given this info, I would definitely still wait more than...

I have no experience with gluten-free beers, but I'm sure those are no different than "normal ones" in this respect. I think you will be absolutely fine waiting until Monday or longer. Personally I would not attempt to bottle if there is still a bubble every ca. 10 seconds... Although I'm well...

IME there is no need at all to rush when bottling, especially if it isn't something overly hoppy. But even there, you can definitely leave the beer in the fermenter a few additional weeks without issues. What style of beer is this? I leave most of my beers at least one month in primary before...

My process seems similar to yours, although I’ll let it sit longer in primary before dry hopping and then bottling (generally 3-4 weeks, even for hoppy beers). So far, I did not experience any problems with diacetyl and/or overcarbonation either. Once I thought I had some diacetyl at bottling...

You can definitely brew lager-like beers using ale yeast, but it takes the right ale yeast and right fermention schedule. Specificallly, a very clean ale yeast (not S-04) and cool fermentation temperatures. With S-04 you are surely way better off brewing an ale and calling it an ale :)

By the way, the AA did not have any noticeable effect on beer pH, or if it had one, it must have been very minimal. I added the AA together with the dry hops, 4 days prior to bottling (here's another step where I differed from your schedule and I forgot to mention). I measured pH before that...

Hi, thanks for your reply! I followed my by-now usual routine for bottling hoppy beers, i.e. purging the headspace. So the AA was something additional. I sampled the first bottles last weekend after 1 week of conditioning, and besides some hop burn (that hopefully will fade away), they tasted...

This is very interesting and reflects my one and only experience with brett so far. I also fermented with 3522 as primary strain and then added brett b (Orval dregs). The beer was at 1.007 after ca. 4 months, higher than I would expect based on all I had read. Then bottled it and tried not to...

No one mentioned water chemistry yet, and I know this is maybe not the first issue a beginning homebrewer would want to tackle... fermentation temp control is generally recognised as more important (and I agree to an extent, especially if temps were creeping up to 78 or so). That being said...

Hello from Bern! ...and welcome! You are right, there isn't much beer tradition in this country, BUT fortunately, there is a booming craft beer scene in Switzerland right now. It seems to me that every second homebrewer is now opening some sort of micro- or nanobrewery...there are now more than...

Hi Tyrub42! So I bottled my first attempt at a "real" NEIPA last Sunday and I tried your ascorbic acid method (but without SMB/KMB, fingers crossed, we'll see what happens, if anything happens). Besides that I followed exactly your procedure. However, I am now asking myself whether it was really...

I concur with @Gnomebrewer . I would not worry too much about contamination, but oxidation could be a real possibility, as half of that carboy is now full with air. Now an aged imperial stout might stand some oxydation better than other styles (hoppy styles in particular). But I wouldn't want to...

I'm doing this since a few years now with great results so far. I revived and propagated 2+ years old yeast samples and brewed with those without any issues. I haven't tested samples older than that yet, but I certainly will in the coming years. I use a final concentration of glycerin in the...

unfortunately not... if I'm putting another 20 Gal vessel like that in my basement I'll get trouble ;) This is a great and simple idea I did not think about! Yes I think I could do that. You can place that dip tube basically in any position you want, if it holds that position during the...

That is of course a great way to solve the issue but unfortunately not doable for me at the moment, since I haven't upgraded to conicals yet... nor will that happen in a near future.

The port is the Ss brewtech dip tube with their custum trub dam. Basically it is a device that should theoretically allow one to pick up even the last liters of wort provided a) a whirlpool is done and b) the whirlpool is effective and the trub piles up nicely in a cone in the middle of the...

How are you guys dealing with kettle trub for NEIPAs? Last weekend I brewed my first attempt at a “real” NEIPA. This was also my 2nd brew on my new system using a 20 gal SS brewtech kettle (including the SS brewtech trub dam). After chilling I whirlpooled like crazy, let it settle for 25 min...