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Clarifying and filtering absolutely reduce hop presence, so I happily tolerate cloudy hoppy beers. On the other hand, when maximizing hoppiness is not the focus, I firmly believe that better looking beer is better tasting beer. First impressions really matter.

I use buckets and have no interest in "upgrading". Cheap, lightweight, and easy to open for additions or top cropping yeast. Also, I like to have a lot of variety, so it just makes more sense to have several buckets versus one or two expensive conicals. However, I can see the argument for...

Looks great, and for the dry hops there's no reason to overthink it. Just use the same as you did for the late boil/flameout additions.

I agree, 1272 is delicious, just finished drinking a 1272 + galaxy pale and I was sad to see it go. However, tropical in the thread title and nobody has mentioned WLP644 yet?

Looks good, but I think everyone is trying to tell you that it's very 'old school'. Like a recipe you'd see in 2003. Most people these days would recommend getting more flavor and aroma by putting all the post-60 minute hops in at flameout with a hopstand and dry hop. If you're concerned about...

In fact, with an OG of 1.092, I'd say you're better off pitching onto a cake.

I'd go a step further and move all the boil additions to flameout and do a 30+ minute hopstand, or as long as you have patience. Also, if you want more hop character, they're never wasted in the dry hop. It wouldn't hurt to have three ounces there as well as in the hopstand.

I think you'll just have to wait until the temp gets below 72 or so... anything but a saison yeast would be gross at high temps. You could possibly go extreme by halting fermentation at your desired FG with pasteurization or chemicals, but I don't have any experience with that.

Maybe it's not helpful to you, but hopefully it can help others who read this thread while researching yeast-washing. The three replies you've gotten have basically told you that A: it's extremely difficult to discern trub from yeast when harvesting, and B: that yeast washing is no longer...

Lately I've seen more and more convincing arguments that yeast washing is at best extra work of dubious benefit and at worst harmful to yeast health. See the sticky at the top of this forum.

S04 is nice for a lot of beers but I think it strips out too much hop flavor and aroma to be useful in IPAs and the like. A side-effect of its excellent flocculation, I guess.

I typically get between 72-75% with a full volume, 1 hour mash, but lately I've done some overnight mashes that have been around 80%.

I like to rehydrate by boiling a 1/2 cup of tap water in a saucepan for 5 minutes at the beginning of my 60minute boil. i set it aside to cool and by the time the boil is finished, it's cooled to about 80F, ready to hydrate while I am chilling the wort. It's very little extra effort, and it's...