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Just my opinion. Good luck with whatever you choose.

If the welds are sanitary I don't see the issue. What are you thinking for a lid and connections? I have been looking at conicals for a while but have never pulled the trigger. A couple of design points to consider. 1. Option to add a stainless coil to be added for internal cooling. (if you...

Thank you. I will probably give it a try. I have 4 stc's but haven't checked the versions yet.

I have made it through 77 pages and did a search of the thread without seeing the answer. I am looking to implement the flow meters for raspberry pints. They use an alamode for the interface to the flow meters. Will this work to program the stc. Does anyone know what the pin layout will be...

150 on what? He already has an RO system. Starting with RO and building up from there is very simple. You may never get "natural" water but there is a reason brewers have been treating water one way or another for a long time. It is because the source water isn't appropriate in one way or...

I bought a gear motor off eBay. It came from a hospital bed. A little slow at 75 rpm but works great on my mm 3 roller. About $35.

You have RO available which is what everyone wishes they had. Use it.

Stainless Brewing is a good vendor. I know you said you are set on the Blichmann pots. I would reconsider that if you want this for a commercial system in the future. I would look to the pots that have welded TC fittings (I believe many are comparable in price to the Blichmann's). I would...

I agree. I feel this can also be related to the amount of dead space. The mash thickness will vary greatly for different size grain bills. This is primarily a concern on 5 gal batches, if you are mainly doing 10 gal batches i don't think this would be an issue

I use the pico style with the supports cut down to lessen the dead space. I was not happy with how much deadspace it had stock especially doing a 5 gal batch. I used a Jaybird style for a while but went back to the pico after the support modification. I have a HERMS system so scorching is not...

With 60 amps you could run 2 elements at the same time. If I was going to go with 55 Gallon pots I would have 2 in the HLT and 2 in the BK. Look at theelectricbrewery.com and see how he does his brew day. It would be identical but you would use 2 elements at the same time while he uses 1 at a...

No need, dead yeast is the main ingredient in some yeast nutrients. http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6-9-1.html

Bobby, I would buy them if you had them. I bought my keg bottom drains and camlocks from you and would love to replace the entire inlet side of my system to 3/4 inch (including the bottom drain kit). This would especially help when I am cleaning grain from the mash tun.

Ordered one yesterday. Looking forward to trying it out. Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

Ah, thanks. Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

So is the part that is on the exterior of the pot npt or straight? I am reading it as they are straight threads which limits what I can connect to it. Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

Sounds good so far. However, I don't think the small pumps will be necessary.

Sweet, I am in.

See my post #7. I have not done any research into valves. Here is what a quick ebay search turned up. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-2-DN15-DC12V-3-Way-T-Port-Brass-Motorized-Ball-Valve-2-5-Wire-Control-/151206197533?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item233497791d

I would use the same medium for both heating and cooling to eliminate the mixing problem. One pump for each reservoir. I would put 3-way valves on the input and output of the jacket. You could then rig up an Arduino like system to control each fermentor.