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I vote 15.5. If you are seriously committed to your batch size though and have been using it some time, then I'd get the 3 assuming they are the same price. If not, get whatever is cheapest.

"Listen, I can have the jar of yeast, or we can go back to buying beer all the time.". Then hope the bluff isn't called.

Right. A bit of cleaning and a mason jar is less risk than leaving it in a bucket IMO. I have racked out a beer and then onto that cake the same day, but thats hours not days. Hell, you can chow some pickles and use that jar if you don't have a mason handy, I have.

Well the fast fermentation time claims are spot on.... we'll see how it ends up. 3 days to drop krausen, but my spunding valve was acting up. It's had 5-25-2-30 psi so far... mostly higher psi though. Bought a blowtie kit and will happily discard my current valve. It was ok for low psi, but...

Never washed either. Even the "relatively quickly" part is probably overkill. I give it a good look, a smell, and if its pretty old I'll also taste some of the beer on top. I';ve used up to (at least) 6 month old slurry without missing a beat, I just pitch more at that point. It's stored at 33...

Solder one of Bobby's flat face triclamp fittings on the lid, add a light weight butterfly valve. Done, and much safer than flipping a hot lid.

Awesome - thanks!

I did epoxy flooring for a living for a while. If you have bare concrete, 100% solids 2 part epoxy is impossible to beat. $150 USD or so per gallon, about 125 sqft per gallon. Anything cheaper and you should just use something else. Other epoxies may work, but are mich more finicky, some...

Lol, agreed. The 4mm would probably work better for thermals, but man would those pours be slow, like set a timer slow I think. 6mm is what I was thinking $50 for 78 feet makes a pretty cheap jockeybox. It would be rigged up right now with water in a keg if I had some... If it was just plastic...

Yep, use evabarrier in place of stainless. The thermals are exactly what I'm wondering about. I'd never consider it with standard bev line, but I just moved to Evabarrier and after playing with it it seems thinner.

Ya, the fermzilla sticker says 15 gallons, then has 4 more liters above that, and then some more headspace after that. So if I could get 25psi and keep the krausen this low, can probably push to 15 gallon batch sizes for lawnmower beers. That's super appealing...

Title pretty much says it. Anyone tried this? Reasoning pretty much comes down to cost, even 39ft x2 is cheaper than 50 foot of SS coil or a plate chiller.

I have to say lutra is way more clear than most strains are while actively fermenting. Seems like as soon as krausen drops, it will be cleared at the same time. The WLP029 on the other hand looks like a milk shake... Also, 5 psi to 25 psi results in about 2 inches less krausen.

Hah, was just reading that thread I think looking at the DIY tilt alternatives.

940 is my goto lager. No particular reason other than familiarity. Very clean, it won't promote anything and it also won't hide anything. For that reason, I'm not huge on using it on Cerveza. The flavor from the flaked corn is too much. Does really well in other lagers though. I'm guessing the...

Oh, wow. I though they were way lower, bit come to think of it the do have some pretty stout springs. I guess I'm being a little paranoid on the rest too, I routinely trust way jankier connections at higher pressures, some much higher. Or maybe it is just my innate laziness mechanism, might...

What pressure are you running the lutra at? I pretty much have always run 5 psi with other yeasts and then try to catch the last few points to build up to 30ish, like you're saying it's free co2. I miss that mark a lot though(late) and would love to just be able to run 30-35 psi early in the...

Crap, good reminder, I usually do but totally spaced. My CO2 is almost empty too, so the more saved the better. Thanks. Edit:

Yep, what Fizzacks said - not slower, but less soluble. More head pressure is needed to force the co2 into solution with the beer. 30 PSI @ 65F is the same as 13 PSI at 40F, 2.57 vs 2.58 volumes. Another way to think about it, if you take one of your fully carbonated kegs out of the fridge at...

Why not carb while dryhopping? It's the same as carbing it when cold, just higher pressure to achieve the same level of carbonation. Cuts time off carbonation so that you have fresher beer, and therefore getting more out of your dry hop. I'd dryhop around 3 days at 30 psi, crash and transfer to...