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I thought it should read 4.01 even if solution was bad but then I'm really confused...both of my meters and now a buddy of mine's meter (same model) are all reading the same after a fresh calibration. So that's 3 different hach meters reading 3.95 after calibrating with that same solution to...

Yep just got the latest version last night and used it. Use a freshly calibrated hach pH meter and added 8.5g, 5g, 6ml of calcium chloride, gypsum, and lactic to 10G of mash water and 7g, 4g, and .4 ml to 8.5G of sparge water to get a 5.28ph which was exactly where it ended up. I wonder if it...

I tried calibrating my Hach pH meter today and was surprised to find that even after multiple calibrations, it's still not reading the 4.1 sample correctly...it's reading around 3.95 or so. It reads the 7 solution just fine. This pH meter is less than a year old and has been reliable up...

BTW, @Braufessor I noticed in your quoted post above you say you use .5-1ml of lactic acid in the mash/sparge to bring the pH into range...that seems pretty low based on most models. Is that a typo? I'm brewing a version of this recipe today and the grist is pretty similar and I'm needing...

I don't cold crash in primary so I'm not the best person to answer...I rack to the keg around day 4 or 5 when there's a few points left and let it finish in the keg for another few days and then crash in the kegerator. It's usually around day 7-10 that I'm crashing. This does require that you...

I usually am pretty ocd about my pitch rates but I've heard good things about underpitching 1318. I was debating doing 1.5 fresh smack packs for 5.75G of 1.065 wort with around a min of pure o2. Anybody have experience underpitching compared to a normal pitch? Any diacetyl issues?

I think I can safely answer for him in saying that racking to secondary is a no no in NEIPAs. Too much o2 intake. Treat the keg as the secondary and if you're bottling....well, good luck but I would definitely bottle straight from primary

Without a legend it doesn't really tell us anything

If bottling straight from the fermenter I could see that. I think most are racking to a bottling bucket which is where things go south

bottling from a keg is fine...it's bottle conditioning that is the problem

Flaked adjuncts may be some of it but the bottom line is what defines the style is a TON of late/dry hop additions and flavor/aroma compounds are highly susceptible to oxidation. Once you diminish those with even a tiny bit of dissolved oxygen in the finished product, you're left with a boring...

Yes...sorry I guess that doesn't read clearly without context

I did 92/5/3 based on that post by Trinity and I wouldn't do it again or if I did I would mash at 158. A step mash with that ratio brough me down to 1.005 I would likely try 95/4/1 but at that point is it even worth the effort? I'm not sure

Adi from Omega regularly attends our Homebrew group meetings and always sings it's praises. I haven't used it yet myself but a few of the guys in the group have and it explodes like you mentioned. One guy did a NEIPA with 1318 against it and I preferred the 1318 but it wasn't by much

First, it's not impatience, it's just when the beer is ready for me. Second, the floating dip tubes make a big difference. Without them I could see the beers needing another 5-7 days. As it is, I notice no difference between day 7-10 and day 30 other than appearance (it clears a bit more...

7-10 days is not laughable for this style. I have yet to have an ale take longer than 7 days to ferment out completely. Usually I'm at spunding gravity on day 3. They don't need lagering time and if the yeast was treated properly there should be nothing to clean up. DH 24 hours in, spund...

Replace with these http://www.brewhardware.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=kegtubing316bevseal

I have noticed carapils to be foam negative. Also that doesn't look too bad for 5 minutes post pour

20 minutes rest at 164-167 should help. Also check your pH...if it's too low that will kill head

5.2 pH post boil is recommended when dry hopping