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If you're going to add sage/juniper your safest bet is to leave out any additional hops.

Steeping oats is not ideal but that doesn't stop it from being a common practice that many brewers are o.k. with. What it contributes when steeped is a subject of debate. In this case, you're talking about a half pound. You're fine.

The 24 hour rule applies when treating must, typically a dosage of 1 tab per gallon. If you're following the 1/4 tab per 5 gallon rule for brewing water, it's not an issue.

I see several factors that contribute to your lack of attenuation. WLP 002 is a low attenuator and probably even more so when using malt extract. Also, crystal and maltodextrin is going to add a point or two to your terminal gravity.

You should have 6 lbs of LME according to NB. Yes, I would just use a pound or 2 of extract for the boil. I add the bulk at flame out. I don't use whirlfloc or moss on extract brews since I don't separate the break material before going to the fermenter.

I wouldn't use mineral oil if it's going to be used for brewing. I have to imagine if it leaches into the wort it won't be good for head retention. If you feel it needs to be oiled there are food safe drying oils, generally tung. I've got a dedicated long handled wooden spoon for brewing that...

A lot of beers kind of have a classic recipe. Bavarian wheat is 50% Wheat, 50% Pils. A dry stout is 70% Pale Ale, 20% flaked barley and 10% roasted barley. APA/IPA 85% 2-row, 10% Munich and 5% crystal. Once you understand the general role of a specific malt you can sub in similar malts...

I've brewed with sage a couple times last year, it wasn't bad. One was a wheat that I added .4 oz of fresh chopped leaves at flameout. It would definitely be a nice change for the cinnamon, nutmeg, vanilla theme. Haven't used juniper but I'm feeling it.

You could use a toasted malt like Munich, Special Roast, Biscuit, Victory.....However, they're not a steeping grain and really need to be mashed. Can you find some Munton's DME? It's English and pretty common. Personally, I would roll with the Briess.

If it's an extract batch you can pretty accurately calculate your original gravity. I might even argue it's kind of pointless to take an actual reading unless you have some unknown variable.

Lower your temp to 145 and extend your time to 2 hours. I did a German Pils at 140 for something like 10 hours and ruined it. It was like drinking flour water.

The specs are a little misleading. It has the lid and handles listed as stainless but nothing for the actual pot leading me to believe it's enameled plain steel. And why would you finish stainless with an enameled finish? You would have to be careful not to chip the enamel which will happen...

Yep, remove the handle on the mill and chuck a drill do it. I have a Barley Crusher and I ended up buying a 6 amp Black N Decker drill to go with it. I have a 12v cordless, wasn't enough power. Tried my dad's corded, not enough power and I couldn't chuck it tight enough. The Black N Decker...

The general rule is to bump it up the last third or quarter of fermentation. According to my calculations, 3/4's was at 1.038 if you factor a 75% ADF/1.022 terminal gravity. I just watch for the bubbles to slow and then pull the fermenter out of the chest freezer to leave at room temps for a...

If you just made a 1/2 liter starter you way under pitched. The easiest thing is to bump the temp up about 5-10 degrees F, which would basically be your diacetyl rest at this point.

In my experience, nothing special. You might notice a little sulfur during fermentation and maybe a slight lager character in the final beer. Possibly a little higher attenuation. It's not going to ruin anything nor will it wow you over.

Your recipe has a lower O.G. 1.052 vs. 1.063. Your looking for 15 IBU's. About .75-1.0 oz ounce of any noble hop at about 5% AA should get you in the ballpark. Adjust accordingly if the AA is different.

Unfortunately I don't see this attempt being any closer. For starters, Sierra lists Munich in the grain bill, not CaraMunich. Big difference. CaraMuich is a crystal malt, Munich isn't. Since you mentioned yeast, I remember another thread on the subject about a year ago. This beer is all...

I have a bunch of Coopers yeast that normally comes with their premium selection kits. For whatever reason the yeast they include in this line is an ale/lager blend. I've tried it in about every capacity and would sum it up as a "jack of all trades, master of none".

The all grain recipe is really just a standard Bavarian wheat with a half pound of crystal. You just need about 6.6 lbs of wheat extract plus the half pound of CaraMunich. I know it says Sterling for the hop addition but any noble hop should do.