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To be honest, it took me a couple brew sessions to figure that out :-o

I think your units are quart/lb... I default to 1.7 quart/lb using BeerSmith although I have the 35L so space for water can be a premium. I also tilt the brewer when I’m racking to the fermenter...

Agree. I have little trouble managing mash temp with the lid off and jacket on. No one approach is wrong if your brew day is successful!

I find the RB sensor aligns with reference thermometers when I calibrate in hot water. I see quite a difference though in comparing the RB sensor to the mash temp, it can be as much as 6 deg different. But this makes sense as the mash has a huge thermal mass compared to the space below the false...

Results seem excellent. Any concerns with that process?

Please be sure to post your results, I‘d like to know, for sure

Yes, but: - much of the overflow is not passing through the grain - inevitably you’ll get some grain in the boil (may be insignificant?)

Keep us updated on it. seems the yeast will be the main flavor driver: “this unique yeast complements farmhouse beers with citrusy esters and restrained phenols. The strain produces a character of lemon pith, black pepper, and a soft mouthfeel.”

Related to no sparge, I don’t recall, do you have a 35L or 65L? And tell me about the farmhouse ale, new one for me...

I’ve been finishing my basement (one year + project), so not able to brew for the past 2 weeks. Planning 4 sessions: west coast IPA, my go-to double IPA, Czech Pilsner, and my wife wants a coconut-something (undetermined).

Well said, I completely agree. I made quite a few tweaks and “rules” as I dialed in my process, some had a small, others a large impact. It’s tough to let any of them go although I’ve thought about backing off on frequency of stirring the mash. I think the guys on this thread who’ve used a...

I’ve removed the top screen and center pipe and see no change in recirculation or sparging. IMO the top screen serves to keep grain in the malt pipe during overflow conditions. I monitor the level throughout the mash and turn the recirculation on and off as needed and have no to very minimal...

Quick math: It comes down to mash capacity. All of my 5 gal/35 L high gravity batches require sparge (I sparge 100%). You could probably do any 5 gallon batch on the 65L but I’d guess that 10 gallons would require sparge.

I’ve always understood batch to mean you empty the wort completely then add the sparge water. So I vote for fly sparging, I use the same process as @RePete

Fly sparging. I was struggling with efficiency and tried a few things, but didn’t hit the target until I dropped the mill gap.

I‘m using 1.7 ratio, may look at upping that on my less-big-beers.

I’m using 0.032” with the malt pipe and I’m getting 74%+ efficiency (35 L robobrew). I use a $3.00 feeler gauge set from Harbor Freight.

What mill gap are you using for no sparge?

For sure you should setup a system that addresses your needs and preferences. I’ve used the Robobrew 35L for about 50 batches over 3 years and I can’t see brewing without the mash pipe or internal pump. There’s no way I‘d switch from the RB malt pipe to a bag - the pipe provides a no mess...

😂