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For me, the pressure stops rising after about 10days, at 72 degrees. I use about 2.5oz of sugar, and it ends up being around 25psi.

3 will fit in the holiday 5cu ft. I could even put 4 the day I decide to put the CO2 out. It has to be ball lock kegs though.

If you consider getting the freezer from lowes: when I got a freezer there, that was in stock in the store, they offered free next day delivery.

You have a lot of information on pinlock vs ball lock on HBT, but here is a summary: * size is different: ball lock are thiner and taller. It is something to consider if the fridge you plan to use is small. * disconnects are different: with pin lock, gas and liquid disconnect are different...

I would go for this one: http://stores.kegconnection.com/Detail.bok?no=511 You will *quickly* save a lot of money over the little CO2 cartridge system.

By using a gauge with the kegs I prime, I am able to monitor the pressure. I did it for 4 kegs, and it has consistently been the same behavior: * I prime the keg and hit it with 30 psi. * After a day, it is down to something between 5 and 10psi. I assume this loss of pressure comes from the...

I do not think it would be a problem. Since it is in a keg, you do not need to stir. If you were bottling yes, because you would want the same quantity of priming sugar in each bottle, but in the keg this is not necessary.

If you have more carbonation when you turn down the pressure, it means your lines are too short to balance the serving pressure. As a consequence, you have more foam, and less CO2 that remains in solution. You should not need to lower the pressure. I started with 5 ft of line as well, which is...

Then it looks like it is not overcarbed. The problem comes from the line that are too short to compensate the serving pressure. It happened to me too when I got my kegging kit 2 months ago with 5 ft long lines. I changed them 2 weeks ago to have 10ft and now I can keep the pressure at 12psi to pour.

If you have check valves, the reading of 12 psi might not be the pressure that is actually inside your keg. So you beer MAY be overcabed. As previously said, 10 ft of 3/16 lines would be better. What happens in your case is that you beer is carbonated, but the gas goes out of solution when...

I followed this post to build mine: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f163/my-first-spunding-valve-231048/ I have exactly the same parts. The only difference is that I added some clear tubbing in order to see if some liquid/kreusen is coming up. It is working great.

The only way to know is by using a scale and subtract the original wight of your tank.

From whitelabs: "Before pitching, make sure the wort temperature is between 70-80o F. Too cold and the yeast will take too long to begin fermentation, too hot and the yeast can be killed" Once the fermentation starts, move your fermentation container where the temperature fits the style...

Are you talking about the foodsaver bags ? Costco has a value pack with a great price. It is sold on their website, and I know it is available at my local warehouse as well.

As discussed above, it looks like it is not about the style that you want to achieve, but whether or not your bottles will be able to handle the pressure.

Insulation is not that big of a deal: I did not use cutting tools for the wood, since I do not have any. The guy at home depot cut the pieces for me. As a result, I have some seams about everywhere :-) It is great you were able to make something that looks seamless though. What I did to fix this...

Right now I have a spare, with its own pressure, set at 30psi. I am glad I planed this when putting my keezer together: it is very convenient to have 30psi on hand to seal kegs and to carbonate anything you want (water/juice) quickly using the carbonation cap.

Getting rid of the top is a great idea. I did the same for my keezer build, and it looks much nicer than it would with the original lid. You did a great job at putting this together.

I am doing this as well. I do not have the room to keep everything in the keezer, and some beers just need some time at room temperature to age anyway. So priming in the keg is a good solution. For the valve, I did exactly this: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f163/my-first-spunding-valve-231048/...

Thank you for the information. I am about to get a new pot and burner to start brewing all grain, and BIAB looks like the best solution for me. I will start without recirculating, but will eventually upgrade when the time is right. Your setup is definitely a good goal to reach, one day!