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My thought is to do the "one vessel", BIAB all grain brew, as displayed in the video at the beginning of this thread. Just curious if it can be done on a stove with the 10 Gal Blichmann etc.., using multiple bags for grain, since I was proposing a 5 gallon batch.

I was thinking of splitting grain bill into two bags to save my back from hoisting a single large, water soaked bag. SWMBO not keen on installing a hoist/pulley over kitchen stove. I was considering using a paint strainer bag, but I have also noticed on other threads that premade bags are...

Yes, I can boil 5 gallons on stove, but my main concern is the thermometer probe that sticks out, possibly ripping the bag(s) while dunking/stirring during the mash.

I have a 10 gal Blichmann, and was wondering if it was feasible to do 5 gal batches on an electric stove? I currently do 5 gal extract kits. My kettle has the thermometer, and I worry about it causing problems with bags. Anyone have experience with this?:mug:

Midwest Supply Hank's Hefeweizen is my favorite, but I am partial to the Bavarian wheats as a style

I understand the scorching prevention, but the thing that puzzled me was the previous recipes you steeped, then brought to boil, pulled off burner and stirred in the LME/DME. This one had me add LME after steeping, THEN bring to a boil.

Am brewing Midwest Irish Red Ale, and the instructions are to add LME after steeping grains, then bring to boil and add hops. This is different than my other beers that recommended bringing to a boil after steeping, remove from heat and add LME/DME. Any reason for the difference?

4 weeks from yeast addition. Carbonation noticeably better- even had a little head for awhile. Not great, but makes it much easier to drink. I am still not sure where I went wrong. I used dry yeast without making a starter for this witbier. All my subsequent brews I have used a Wyeast smack pack...

You might consider a blow off for the first few days. My last heffe filled the airlock within 24 hours!

I have a porter extract kit from Midwest Supply, and the priming sugar packet that came with the kit is 5 ounces. The priming sugar calculators referenced in a previous post indicated for 5 gallons of porter I would only need 3.4 ounces. Any insight as to the discrepancy?:confused:

Couldn't resist a "carb check". Nearly 2 weeks at ~72 degrees, carbonation a little better, but no head and still not a normal carb level.

Do you fashion any cover and will the 6.5 or 6 gal carboy fit?

I looked at the 60 qt cooler at Walmart, and it looked like the contour of the bottom would not allow the carboy to sit flat. The "bulge" from the axle of the wheels bulges out.I didn't have a tape measure, of course.

I recall a thread that discussed/illustrated using a 60 quart Igloo cooler for holding carboy to optimize temp control during primary. Can't find thread despite scrolling/search for an hour, so I am appealing for help. My basement is 64 degrees, and I want to brew a heffeweisen in low 70's to...

How I poured didn't affect it. So today I made a slurry with a little bit of dry yeast in 3 ounces of water and added 10 drops from a sanitized syringe to each bottle and recapped. I put the bottles in a big Tupperware tub and covered. Condition at 71 degrees for a couple of weeks and see what...

Belgian wit bier extract kit that I got final gravity of 1.016 after 3 weeks in primary. (OG 1.051) Used 5 oz priming sugar. Bottle conditioned for two weeks at 67 degrees, sampled, then moved to 72 degrees after minimal carb at initial sample. I did swirl each bottle to re-suspend yeast. Now 4...

On my 4th batch. This forum has been a GREAT resource!:mug:

Rinsed X 3, then bottle tree

Thanks. Oxicleaned them this am. Starsan before bottling later this week.

Newbie brewer ( 3batches so far). Have box of new 16 ounce bottles. Do I need to clean before sanitizing, or can I just sanitize prior to bottling?