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I have used a yeast starter recipe that calls for adding yeast nutrients. If you use a smack pack, do you need to add extra nutrients?

I have the Highgravity system, & have two batches in fermenters. In another thread, the issue of avoiding aeration during sparge/mash was mentioned. Anyone have links/info re: this issue? The nozzle setup in this system would seem to promote aeration prior to boil. Sent from my iPad using...

Looks like your "old" filter is working just fine!

Is this pot induction compatible? (Does a magnet stick to the bottom?)

Another option is to split the grain bill between two bags. I do 5 gallon batches on stove top with 10 gallon Blichmann kettle. SWMBO not keen on installing pulley system over stove in kitchen, so I use two bags, which makes lifting wet grain much more manageable.

I have brewed ~ a dozen Heffeweizens, and I have sampled each after 7-10 days in bottle, and all have been good, & adequately carbed. I haven't the patience to wait 3+ weeks, and this style lends itself to early vs. late consumption. I usually put a bottle in the refrigerator for 24 hours...

I have been double milling my grains (Barley Crusher @.039), and I have TONS of trub. I do a lot of wheat beers, which I know can contribute to this, but I had same issue with a pale ale. My OG have been consistently .003 or .004 higher than predicted. (I use 2 Wilserbrewer bags) I have had one...

I smacked my Wyeast 3068 before I checked my grain on hand, and I found out I only have 3 pounds of wheat. I was planning on a 5 gallon batch of EdWort's Heffe, but with no LHBS, that is out, so I am stuck with my current stock: 3 # Weyerman Bohemian wheat .5 pound Carapils 3# German Vienna...

What is an aroma steep? Adding hops during the wort chilling process? I thought the goal was to cool wort as fast as possible and get the yeast pitched.

Another option is to double grind. That is what I do, and so far I have hit my OG every time.

I split the grain bill in to two bags to save on my arms/back, and "tea bag dunk" and stir a couple of times, and I usually hit my OG. I do 5 gallon batches using a 10 gallon Blichmann.

I have used the Home Depot bags (I split grain bill between 2 bags to save on my arms/back), and with the exception of scorching a hole in a bag that I let sit on the bottom of my brew kettle as I turned up heat to mash out, they have been fine.

You can split the grain bill and use two bags. I do that, and use "tea bag dunking" combined with a stir or two with a spoon in each bag. Makes it easier to manage the grains, and I have hit my OG with each batch I have done.

Most of what I have read is that once you get wort below 80, you will be fine. I have always pitched in the mid 70's and have never had a problem. Brew on.

One week in the bottle, and it turned out to be as good, or better than my extract Heffeweizen. :mug:

Yikes! Using this formula, for a 5 gallon batch of German wheat beer, I would have to hold back nearly a gallon of gyle to use for this technique...:confused:

I just use 2 bags, so I don't need pulleys etc..:mug:

First BIAB last night, a MW Heffeweissen. (Have done 10 extract batches and one partial mash) I have a 10 gallon Blichmann kettle, and the thermometer was off calibration by 12 degrees, so I ended up mashing for 60 mins at actual temp of 141. When I discovered the error using my thermometer...

What temp do you use for your sparge water?:mug:

My concern with setting up in my basement is the condensation issues with the boil. Do you have any type of exhaust fan?:mug: