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Nope, the logging and the profile are independent of each other. You don't even need to pause the logging. Just create your profile and start it and the logging will document it all. You can even create a profile and start somewhere within the profile.

Version 2 just relates to the version of RaspberryPints where they added the flow meters. You can use those instructions if you put an old version of Raspbian on your Pi. I'd suggest going with Stretch and using the RandR+ install script. It works well.

Thanks! How do I go about creating the lookup table for the load cells that I purchased?

Hey @VacationLand, thanks for the idea and the code for this. I have all of my parts and am starting to cobble together my first "scale" to put into my system. I have two questions. First, for the ds18b20, where do you physically install that in the system? Is it near one of the load cells...

If you're talking about how to reset the EEPROM, that's under the device dashboard, in the Manage Device/View Logs screen.

Click on the inverted button in the setup screen for the device. It allows you to toggle between high and low on the pin.

For the record, my contribution was to put everything on the board so Lee could then move everything where he wanted, and then to channel my inner Dave by telling him to beef up the GND and 5V traces.

I'm going from memory and it has been a couple of years, so cut me some slack if I remember this incorrectly, but...when I set one of my minions up via bluetooth, it was rather straightforward. Use the automated workflow and get your device working through the normal USB approach. Once it is...

Thanks very much for the response. This helps me a ton. Is there a reason you didn't go with the valves in a manifold rather than coupled with hoses? I'm not harping at all, just trying to figure out the pros and cons.

Yep, everything should work the same on the shield as it did on this schematic. As for the LED's, hook one side up to the B-C post and the other side to the header pin on the LED header on the shield. There is an associated pull up resistor on the shield to complete the schematic. Should work...

The tap list runs on a Raspberry Pi that serves up a webpage that you can access with any device on your network, or even outside your network if you configure your router correctly. You can use an iPad to display the webpage and place it anywhere you like. There are plenty of examples on the...

Thanks for clarifying that!

While the computing power in the Pi may be sufficient, I believe you'll have a problem with the operating systems of trying to get RaspberryPints and TiltPi working on the same Pi. I can't remember what the technical name is when you modify the OS to work as a single purpose program, but I...

I stumbled on that, too. I think he means that he bent the pins slightly and it solved the problem, not that the problem was slightly solved. Let's eat mom!

Is your thermo well so far into the bottom that it is in the trub?

It looks like your heater is somehow the culprit. Check out the two blips early in your fermentation. There is a swing there, too, when the heater kicks on. With your fermentation early, the heat was enough to keep things steady. But as fermentation slows down, it looks like your heater kicks in...

When you try to connect in AP mode, type a website into your browser, like www.espn.com. Don't use a cached website.

Wait, don't do that. The TTGO style board is the one that didn't work for me. So it looks like there is an instance of both kinds not working. I'll try to retrace my steps to see what I could have done to bork in on flash.

To double the sample size, I had the same problem with the same board. It seemed to flash okay, then nothing and no way to access it in AP mode. I had ordered the other LCD board in the links and that one worked the first time without trouble.

All of my intermittent probe issues have been from a cruddy power supply. Yours may not be, but check that. You shouldn't be getting any drops.