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Well, I doubt there a hazardous situation going on there, but I'm glad you said this. My response, which should have been my response from the beginning, will be to consult an electrician to make sure there's nothing dangerous with the wiring. Then we add a note in the manual mentioning the...

It's zero-cross (Can't please FCC without it) and only turns on or off with integer cycles. So at 60% power it's 30 on, 20 off, period .833 seconds. It's has to just be the line resistance. There's probably no other standard appliance that operates quite this way so we appear to be the bad guys.

How much energy does it take to make your beer: http://www.ohiobrewingtechnologies.com/myth1.aspx /shameless self-promotion

Oh, I'm pretty sure we're talking about dimming. If it was turning stuff off that's a 100 times worse problem but would probably reset the device anyway. One guy explained it as "pulsating lights", the other was less clear.

I feel very strange asking something like this on here but I'm really out of ideas. I have two customers of our HC-3800 (basically PID+SSR+goodies) who don't like how it makes the lights flicker in their house. I don't even know where to begin with it, I've never been somewhere that this was...

Man that seems like the solution for a headache. Can't you use either a 240-volt pump or a 3-wire GFCI or a separate circuit for your pumps or SOMETHING besides a 20-pound transformer? How about one of those travel adapters? Cheap but I've never really played with one. Might be worth a shot.

Now putting line voltage within the same shield would make me much more nervous. Normally you want more separation than that. UL would probably not accept it without an additional layer of insulation around the mains.

How long will this wire be? The AC could couple between lines but I don't think you'll have problems. You're not going to couple enough energy to accidentally engage a relay. The BCS should reject ripple on the DC, I expect. Now if you're running this for 100 feet, might be wise to split it up.

Noted. Thank you.

I've tried getting him on the forum...But we'd be lucky if he ever brews again!

That should work if you heat sink the SSR properly. 6000 watts isn't far above how they're usually used (5500) anyway.

A friend of mine brewed his first solo batch yesterday, and experienced the usual comedy of errors newer brewers go through. The most worrying mistake is not using the immersion chiller long enough, and pitching the yeast while it was still hot. I asked if it was hotter than body temperature...

Can you be more specific in your question? Are you looking for cost of the energy, or do you mean what options are people using for each? There are many solutions.

Are you on city or well water? Are you sure you want to use that water for making beer?

I'm pretty sure what they mean there is to put it across two of the three 120-Volt phases. That's where 208 comes from. But for all we know it's the exact same element as their 120V 2000-Watt model.

How about one of these for the Brutus 20? 6000 Watts at 208 V will give 2000 Watts at 120, and the watt density should be pretty low. These guys have a pretty good assortment of other heating elements too...

As has been said, a heating element only needs the two hots. Don't just hook up the neutral to something because it's there. If anything it'll cause false GFCI trips and dangerous electrical hazards. Only use the hots and ground. Your clothes dryer probably uses neutral for the light, and your...

Ok, I'll buy that. But still, say you use a timer to get to your target, then spend 5-10 seconds stirring with a spoon before you measure the temp. Is that enough convection or is it the automation you're trying to support?

There must be something I don't understand about heating water in the HLT. I don't get why bother to build a stir motor when a timer can do the trick. You're going to drain it into the MT anyway, and that will mix it up, right?

If you know the temperature and quantity of the water starting out, you can determine how long the element needs to be on for to reach that temperature. Unlike a flame, the electric elements are pretty consistent in their output. Anyway if you know the quarts of water, the temperature...