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I have long blow off tubes coming off my fermenters as well. I started putting a small amount of Co2 pressure through the blow off (take it out of the starsan, insert the nozzle of C02 into tube) and then opening up the trub valve. But it's a pain.

I have their 7 gallon and 14 gallon fermenter and I have a question for you: When you go to dump your yeast, do you remove your airlock? If you don't, it will suck in whatever is in that air lock and if you do, won't is suck in O2? I've been trying to figure out the best way to do this without...

Is there no way of running a new wire? You could, so it won't be as expensive and will be easier to run, get a spool of insulated grounding wire (like this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008OILG5I/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20) and add the ground going to the panel instead of replacing the entire 3...

Correct me if I am wrong but, from what I've read the pH should be adjusted in the Mash with the grist and water. If I remember correctly, it was recommended to mash in, wait about 10 minutes, draw a sample from the mash and measure the pH from there since grains can adversely affect pH no...

What efficiency are you seeing with the recirc during mash?

Yes, it's an emergency disconnect to cut all power to the rig....that's the point. One you pull down the other you push, both can be deactivated with the same force and speed. I rather have a mechanical emergency switch, like the one I referenced above, cutting off all electric rather than rely...

You should be fine with the Sharkbite Poly tubes, in my area they are requiring them as "code" when installing or repairing boilers in homes. If they can hold up the the extreme use and heat in a boiler setting, you'll be fine on a brewing setup. The only thing I heard (and it may have changed...

I second using Spike. I had them weld 2 inch TriClover ports at the bottom side of my kettles to insert the heating elements. I chose 2 inches because it makes it much easier to install and remove the wavey heating element i use. All you would need then is a 2 inch triclover element housing, 2...

Why does everyone still insist on using E-Stop switches? E-Stop switches are for moving mechanical machines, you need a switch close by to stop it right away in the event something gets caught in it (hair, clothing, etc). On our brewing systems if your looking for a safety switch in the event of...

It should be fairly clean inside of it especially since it will still have spirits soaked in the wood. The most important thing is to actually hydrate the staves to swell the wood and make it leak tight since it's been sittign dry for so many weeks. - You'll need to fill the barrel about 20%...

Welded that low would work but going on that curve may be tricky.....weldless will leak because of the curve at the bottom that would prevent a tight seal. That's one of the reason why valves are not that low in the kettle.

Parts washer are really meant to clean greasy mechanical parts using chemicals. I don't think you'd want to use one to clean your food grade brew equipment, there could be a lot of contaminants like oils and grease in the unit from the machining process that could really be toxic.

I haven't tried lagers but the chiller only goes down to 39 F. I guess there is some sort of "governor" on the unit to prevent it from going any lower (you really don't want to go any lower than that for aquariums). I may pull it apart to see what makes it tick to see if i can rewire it myself...

You don't need to go that low. If your sight glass starts showing liquid at the 2 gallon mark, start it at 2 gallons. If a recipe calls for 6 gallons of water for the mash and sparge, then, fill it with 7-8 gallons so that you stop just before it goes below the 2 gallon mark.

Galvanic corrosion can happen between two dissimilar metals and cause them to fuse together. With that said, in the plumbing world, you would be using teflon tape between the two metals to prevent leaks which would prevent the two metals from going through that Galvanic corrosion. As long as...

Chilling fermenting beer is a lot different than chilling water. You're fighting against the yeast that are fermenting the beer and creating heat at the same time. Of course the yeast are not creating a lot of heat, but enough to make the chiller work slightly bit more than just chilling regular...

I drilled 4 holes into the side of my cooler, closer to the top of the cooler above the water line. I used PVC threaded nipples as "bulkheads" to go through the wall and tightened everything down with teflon. It's not the best setup, but it's working out great. If your temp probe is a wired one...

Someone mentioned only using the pump that came with the glycol chiller and foregoing the pump that came with the FTSS system.

Then why purchase the FTSS system? You've just eliminated the temp controller and the pump it comes with and are just keeping the coils and lid, really a big waste of money if you ask me. You may as well just get a custom coil made from stainless brewing, a temp controller like a Johnson (or...

Splashing is good as it's being transferred, introduces more O2 for the yeast, the only time agitation/splashing is bad is when the beer is fully feremented and your transfering it to keg/bottling bucket. Use a small length hose to direct the stream into the fermenter otherwise as others have...