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im running a DIY chiller from a 5k BTU AC, in a 38 at cooler at 20 f. Fermenter is a CF15 spike, with cooling coil and package. It’s been sitting at 39.2 w a set of 38 for like 30-45 minutes and is not dropping.. is it normal for glycol chillers to have a hard time dropping temps? Or am I...

I dont think thats the case this time, as no coconut came out. Only chocolate. I will wait until I cold crash 2 days or so then do a full dump and get everything that I can out, and then let crash for another day or 2 with gelatin, and then rotate my racking arm to get the clearest of rack.

on day 9 of chocolate coconut porter brew. Used four packs of safale us-05. Held temp at 68 give or take a degree. Added 26oz of cholaca and 2.5 lbs of roasted coconut flakes. Fermenting in spike CF15, applies 2 lbs of gas, and dumped. Straight cholaca came out with no yeast or trub (good sign...

Admin can you please move this to the correct chiller sub forum. Didn’t realize I was posting here.

Just finished building my DIY glycol chiller build. I used : 5000 btu arctic wind window AC -Walmart 129$ 38qt cooler - Walmart 20$ 54 gallon tote - Home Depot 25$ 2 gallons glycol - local HBS 50$ 6 gallons distilled water - CityMarket 6$ Inkbird controller - Amazon 25$ Wave Maker - Amazon 5$...

Great answers though, super helpful! Thank you!

Took it back and got an analog one coming in friday. Will document build with pics.

I dont think the pumps were running, but I may be wrong. I will pay more attention next time, and redirect the Wort valve to BK first, then the HLT for sparge water. Im guessing thats when it happened. I have L type 3 way valves, so when you go from one position to the next they are both open...

Thanks! I just ordered a window unit, controller and aquarium pump. Gonna build a DIY window unit glycol chiller, so I hope to not have this issue anymore. Looking forward to being able to utilize my Unitank with all of its accessories instead of half ass crashing, and half ass dumping then...

Pic

hey guys found a cheap AC u it and didn’t even look to see if it was digital or not, got home and realized it was. That being said, when you turn on/off it doesn’t need any input, it goes right back to where it was set at previously. Am I screwed, or is there a way around this? Here is a pic.

need to buy a 1/3 or 1/2HP glycol chiller. Prefer the penguin setup, but open to anything that runs off 110 and is reliable.

Take 600? Shipped to 81620

Yes, that is a Tee on the herms coil input. One side of the tee comes from the MLT, and the other side is from the HLT valve, to the herms coil, for transferring strike/sparge to the MLT. I agree that thats where it came from. Any ideas on how to plug that? Maybe put a valve there?

man, post number 5 that no one has responded to on this forum. thats sweet!

Has anyone successfully cold crashed their conical (spike cf15) with 10 gallon batch down to cold crash temps using just a water/glycol resevoir in a mini-fridge? I think that the heat transfer will warm the cooling source up to much after it passes through the beer continuously. Has anyone...

Im guessing the brown line on the right side of 3 way valve, some how soaked into the left side which was the whirpool for HLT stratification.

Brewed today, first day on new 3 kettle EHERMS system. setup like blichmanns pilot system with 2 3 way ball valves on the pumps. With the HLT pump and valve to the left, for whirpool in HLT, the right side of valve and the line that would send sparge/strike water to MLT was full of wort, I...

I don’t have a hood yet. I have two box fans directly behind and another fan across the other side, with window open, and door across the room cracked open. Ceiling didn’t even get damp. We will see how it goes after first brew, but I don’t think it will be a problem. If it does become a...

That’s a good idea! I’ll check Home Depot later today. My brewstand is wood, like the design KAL uses, and I have a .25” cork underlayment under each kettle. I’ll have to try the wrap though.